Weekend Wrap-Up – The Latest Industry Highlights
By Elisabeta Tudor
Is Paul Surridge Exiting Roberto Cavalli? Paul Surridge at the Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2019...
By Elisabeta Tudor
Is Paul Surridge Exiting Roberto Cavalli? Paul Surridge at the Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2019 show in Milan. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.Amidst rumors that Philipp Plein is interested in buying into Cavalli's fashion imperium, Paul Surridge is said to be now close to resigning from his...
Is Paul Surridge Exiting Roberto Cavalli? Paul Surridge at the Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2019 show in Milan. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.Amidst rumors that Philipp Plein is interested in buying into Cavalli's fashion imperium, Paul Surridge is said to be now close to resigning from his role of creative director at Roberto Cavalli. The English-born designer joined the label in July...
The Show Must Go On
By Elisabeta Tudor
Drama. The good kind of drama. The one that exudes strength, confidence, and power was all over...
By Elisabeta Tudor
By Elisabeta Tudor
Drama. The good kind of drama. The one that exudes strength, confidence, and power was all over the runway shows this season. A lot of luxury brands – the major industry players such as Louis Vuitton, Balmain, and Chanel delivered their regular dose of drama on the runway, but the independent...
Drama. The good kind of drama. The one that exudes strength, confidence, and power was all over the runway shows this season. A lot of luxury brands – the major industry players such as Louis Vuitton, Balmain, and Chanel delivered their regular dose of drama on the runway, but the independent labels also made for quite a show. Y/Project Fall/Winter 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Gio Staiano for...
Paris Day 9: Chanel’s New Beginning and Vuitton’s Beauty of Controversy
By Gianluca Cantaro
They had to ask Karl Lagerfeld twice before he accepted to take the helm of Chanel in 1983....
By Gianluca Cantaro
They had to ask Karl Lagerfeld twice before he accepted to take the helm of Chanel in 1983. “Everybody was saying to me to not accept the appointment because it was the impossible mission of reviving a maison. Today, we try to reanimate even the most absurd brands, but at the time there was a...
They had to ask Karl Lagerfeld twice before he accepted to take the helm of Chanel in 1983. “Everybody was saying to me to not accept the appointment because it was the impossible mission of reviving a maison. Today, we try to reanimate even the most absurd brands, but at the time there was a need for new names,” his voice spoke in an audio clip sent through the speakers before the most awaited...
Paris Day 8: Sacai’s New Silhouette
By Gianluca Cantaro
Working on their own codes and evolving them, while still keeping its soul, is always the biggest...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Working on their own codes and evolving them, while still keeping its soul, is always the biggest challenge for a designer. Doing it in the right way is even more difficult. This season, Chitose Abe at Sacai did it, and she did it well. Her touch is still unmissable, but she worked on a new...
Working on their own codes and evolving them, while still keeping its soul, is always the biggest challenge for a designer. Doing it in the right way is even more difficult. This season, Chitose Abe at Sacai did it, and she did it well. Her touch is still unmissable, but she worked on a new silhouette: first, she stretched it to max (sometimes with couture-like volumes) and then re-scaled it to...
Back to Basics: The Power of Craftsmanship
By Elisabeta Tudor
Today, we see a revival of craftsmanship and cultural-inspired designs on and off the runway,...
By Elisabeta Tudor
Today, we see a revival of craftsmanship and cultural-inspired designs on and off the runway, produced to reflect a lifestyle that is conscious of both cultural roots and artisanal strength – and designers offered their very own take on artisanal craftsmanship during the Fall/Winter 2019-20...
Today, we see a revival of craftsmanship and cultural-inspired designs on and off the runway, produced to reflect a lifestyle that is conscious of both cultural roots and artisanal strength – and designers offered their very own take on artisanal craftsmanship during the Fall/Winter 2019-20 ready-to-wear season in Paris. Stella McCartney Fall/Winter 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Guillaume...
Paris Day 7: Givenchy’s Culture Clash and Valentino’s Imagination
By Gianluca Cantaro
Pick up old British grandma styles, early 90s aristocracy, punkish girls, urban functionality,...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Pick up old British grandma styles, early 90s aristocracy, punkish girls, urban functionality, jewel gowns and shake them all together to see what should come out. Clare Waight Keller at Givenchy did it and the result was great, even if at first sight flooring. Every single look seemed...
Pick up old British grandma styles, early 90s aristocracy, punkish girls, urban functionality, jewel gowns and shake them all together to see what should come out. Clare Waight Keller at Givenchy did it and the result was great, even if at first sight flooring. Every single look seemed disconnected, but it wasn’t. It told a complete story. The coats and jackets were powerful with spiky or...
Green is the Way to Go
By Elisabeta Tudor
Bright colors were all over the Parisian runways this season – especially lapis...
By Elisabeta Tudor
By Elisabeta Tudor
Bright colors were all over the Parisian runways this season – especially lapis lazuli blue, primary red, as well as neon pink and flashy yellow – but one color stood out more than any other: lime green. In fact, it has been trending for a while; the hype started around the end of...
Bright colors were all over the Parisian runways this season – especially lapis lazuli blue, primary red, as well as neon pink and flashy yellow – but one color stood out more than any other: lime green. In fact, it has been trending for a while; the hype started around the end of last year, when the infamous Kardashian-Jenner clan started sporting this flashy green hue as a...
Paris Day 6: Modern Junya Watanabe’s Harajuku Girls and the New Coolness of Hermès
By Gianluca Cantaro
The kawaii models in Junya Watanabe’s show were couples, sisters, or just friends and they mark...
By Gianluca Cantaro
The kawaii models in Junya Watanabe’s show were couples, sisters, or just friends and they mark the comeback of the Harajuku Girls after 20 years, now updated in a modern-day style. They are famous for being the Japanese streetwear tribe that used to mix different traditional and trendy clothes,...
The kawaii models in Junya Watanabe’s show were couples, sisters, or just friends and they mark the comeback of the Harajuku Girls after 20 years, now updated in a modern-day style. They are famous for being the Japanese streetwear tribe that used to mix different traditional and trendy clothes, which started in the central area of Tokyo and was exported worldwide by Gwen Stefani with her...
Paris Day 5: Hedi Slimane’s New Celine
By Gianluca Cantaro
Hedi Slimane did it again. He surprised and wrong-footed lovers and haters sitting at the show,...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Hedi Slimane did it again. He surprised and wrong-footed lovers and haters sitting at the show, and, for sure, the millions of people watching the show on streaming. The Celine 03 collection was the celebration of French chicness in 70s style, but also a starting point of a new aesthetic for the...
Hedi Slimane did it again. He surprised and wrong-footed lovers and haters sitting at the show, and, for sure, the millions of people watching the show on streaming. The Celine 03 collection was the celebration of French chicness in 70s style, but also a starting point of a new aesthetic for the designer, but still very rooted in his iconic DNA. He elaborated the classics of the decade in his...
Paris Day 4: Rick Owens’ Glamour
By Gianluca Cantaro
Camp is the word of the moment. For the ones who don't know, it is the exaggeration of the...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Camp is the word of the moment. For the ones who don't know, it is the exaggeration of the aesthetic that “has power to mix high and low, pop culture and art, never being kitsch,” using the words that Alessandro Michele from Gucci used to describe it in Milano during the press conference of the...
Camp is the word of the moment. For the ones who don't know, it is the exaggeration of the aesthetic that “has power to mix high and low, pop culture and art, never being kitsch,” using the words that Alessandro Michele from Gucci used to describe it in Milano during the press conference of the Met’s next huge Costume Institute 2019 exhibition: “Camp: Notes on Fashion,” based on Susan Sontag’s...
Fashion Farm Foundation: Hong Kong Designers Take Over Paris
By Elisabeta Tudor
As the presence of Chinese-based ready-to-wear brands during Paris Fashion Week is increasing,...
By Elisabeta Tudor
As the presence of Chinese-based ready-to-wear brands during Paris Fashion Week is increasing, the Fashion Farm Foundation (FFF), a Hong Kong-based non-profit governmental project dedicated to the creative industries, once again put mostly Hong Kong-based designer talents in the spotlight,...
As the presence of Chinese-based ready-to-wear brands during Paris Fashion Week is increasing, the Fashion Farm Foundation (FFF), a Hong Kong-based non-profit governmental project dedicated to the creative industries, once again put mostly Hong Kong-based designer talents in the spotlight, showcasing the creative potential of a new generation of Chinese designers in the City of Light. Backstage...
Paris Day 3: Maison Margiela's Minimal Revolution
By Gianluca Cantaro
What if we could restore the world and go back to the pre-computer-generated culture? What if the...
By Gianluca Cantaro
What if we could restore the world and go back to the pre-computer-generated culture? What if the overstimulation of these degenerated times could end in a decadent process that leads us to the most authentic form reaching the core and the essential? John Galliano at Maison Margiela masterfully...
What if we could restore the world and go back to the pre-computer-generated culture? What if the overstimulation of these degenerated times could end in a decadent process that leads us to the most authentic form reaching the core and the essential? John Galliano at Maison Margiela masterfully explored this territory after the technology galore of the recent artisanal collection (the couture...
Kenzo’s Trendy Memento Capsule Collection Is Already Available
By Elisabeta Tudor
Yesterday, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon put up a surprising and outstanding show in Paris for the...
By Elisabeta Tudor
Yesterday, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon put up a surprising and outstanding show in Paris for the fourth presentation of Kenzo’s Memento collections – and, as of today, this archive-inspired capsule collection is already available online and in stores worldwide. Kenzo's La Collection Memento...
Yesterday, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon put up a surprising and outstanding show in Paris for the fourth presentation of Kenzo’s Memento collections – and, as of today, this archive-inspired capsule collection is already available online and in stores worldwide. Kenzo's La Collection Memento N°4 presentation in Paris. Photo: Courtesy of Kenzo. In fact, the Kenzo show was a...
Paris Day 2: Let's Go Back to Dreaming
By Gianluca Cantaro
The feminist proclama chez Dior  continues collaborating with Italian and American artists....
By Gianluca Cantaro
The feminist proclama chez Dior  continues collaborating with Italian and American artists. Starting from the show scenography that relied on the ABCs, where maxi prints portrayed different women in the shape of a letter, created by artist Bianca Pucciarelli Menna (1931), aka Tomaso Binga, a...
The feminist proclama chez Dior  continues collaborating with Italian and American artists. Starting from the show scenography that relied on the ABCs, where maxi prints portrayed different women in the shape of a letter, created by artist Bianca Pucciarelli Menna (1931), aka Tomaso Binga, a woman that choose the masculine pseudonym as parodying the privileges reserved to men alone. Her work...
Size Does Matter and Paris Has the Proof
By Elisabeta Tudor
Keeping away from the extremes is not on the agenda this season. On the contrary, designers in...
By Elisabeta Tudor
Keeping away from the extremes is not on the agenda this season. On the contrary, designers in Paris are opting for a "less is more" or a "more is more" philosophy. Either way, not only does size matter – be it Jacquemus’ itsy-bitsy bags or Anrealage's supersized ready-to-wear – size is crucial...
Keeping away from the extremes is not on the agenda this season. On the contrary, designers in Paris are opting for a "less is more" or a "more is more" philosophy. Either way, not only does size matter – be it Jacquemus’ itsy-bitsy bags or Anrealage's supersized ready-to-wear – size is crucial when it comes to determining a designer's next must-have piece for Fall/Winter 2019.Jacquemus...