Fendi Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Milan
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Last season there was a lot of grumbling by the fashion crowd about the odd choice of venues Fendi had chosen for its spring/summer 2013 show. One that required a ride in a small elevator and cause quite a back log of guests trying to get in. Learning its lesson, this time the brand opened wide the doors to a cavernous venue where one and all could enjoy the collection. No assigned seating, models on a raised runway and just to be sure that everyone got a good look, the show ran on a loop.

Over and over the models, in their hearty winter gear, designed to be worn in extreme weather condition, traipsed up and down the catwalk. In a palette of natural hues and a large dose of shaggy furs, Silva Fendi created a collection for men who spend their life outdoors. It was all about protective thickly woven wool sweaters, warm linings to coats and jackets as well as sturdy workmen like footwear.

Moving past those all important outerwear pieces, Fendi continued to imbue this collection with an organic sensibility on suits and shirts. The use of needle-felted shearling to blend a tartan check shirt at the shoulders into solid red at the torso was a standout piece. As was the oiled leather hoodie that had been melded with wool.

The mix of outfits that incorporated new fabric techniques with those that looked as if they were luxe versions of something a native tribesman in Iceland might put together made for a challenging show. One that was thought provoking and proved that Fendi continues to be a brand unwilling to take the easy road.

- Jessica Michault

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