Fendi Menswear Spring Summer 2018 Milan
Business boys à la Fendi
by Stefano Roncato - MFFashion
We’re lost in music. A remix of the iconic piece by Sister Sledge fills the room from the walls to the marble Fendi floors. Like an office that comes to life at the weekend in some post-teen Hollywood style movie or a biopic of new successful millennials. Elevators open, turnstiles to badge in and out of special offices. No tables, office objects become graphic designs on bags and suits: telephones, lamps, keys, and similar objects designed by artist Sue Tilley. A fresh version of dress down friday. “I call it Fendi Friday, when every day is friday.” Silvia Venturini Fendi explained to MFF. A meticulous play on business style and sportswear, with that ironic twist that defines the men at this LVMH owned maison. The objective is Skype-proof: elegant from the waist up, easy going below, to make sure you don’t get caught out on that conference call. The iconic logo is resurrected, inserted in details on shaved mink collars, appearing as a military style patch on a shirt, on the rigid parts of baseball caps or on Wall Street style suspenders, on the elasticated inserts on slip on moccasins. The same tie pattern from the archive, with its slightly optical feel, is also transformed into shirts. Trench coats are light and airy, like the suits that become transparent, revealing patterns imprinted on backs. Shorts alternate with trousers, apparently on a serious note. American Psycho meets Lady Warhol meets The Business, as seen on the moodboard backstage.
INTERVIEW/Silvia Venturini Fendi, be inspired by the starter-uppers
By Stefano Roncato - MFF Magazine for Fashion
Leggi l'articolo in italiano: http://bit.ly/2txVexA
Why the nod to workwear?
Lots of our codes have changed: a lot of jobs are now disappearing, other new roles are appearing. There’s a more easy going way of dressing for the office, mixing tailoring, ties, and suspenders with sportswear. Relaxed. It’s a way of reflecting on potential prospects. Young starter uppers who are 16 years old, heads of companies and multinational millionaires, yet they still act their age and maintain their attitude.
New business, new look?
Suits are soft rather than structured, often mixing nylon with other materials like leather, or what I like to define as Skype-proof - they stand up to the Skype test. On top there’s the shirt and tie, on the bottom shorts and beach shoes, suitable for working from home or wherever you are. Mocassins that are sandals at the back. The Monday to Friday bag that is reversible, with playful prints inside for the weekend that can be transformed back into a bag for work.
Is the pattern-logo coming back, Fun Fendi?
The spirit is there in the menswear collection. I think that irony is important when taking on life’s challenges. Perhaps it is something very Roman but irony helps you see everything with enthusiasm.
Fendi’s love affair with art continues...
This season we worked with Sue Tilley, who represents this world. She always worked in an office but at the same time was the muse of Lucien Freud and Leigh Bowery, maintaining a strong connection to the world of art. We have translated some elements of her work, everyday objects - almost boring - the things we have on our desks: a coffee cup, a lamp, a phone. But we have made them subliminal through art.
What does that imply?
That we have to be open minded. That imagination conquers all. That new roles, technology, and the androids can now substitute a lot of things, but creativity is part of our human nature. That’s what makes the difference.