The folks at Fendi clearly took the theme from the upcoming Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibit, “PUNK: Chaos to Couture” to heart with their fall/winter 2013 show.
The brand’s name is almost synonymous with luxe pelts, using fur as his medium of choice, designer Karl Lagerfeld embraced the idea of a “pretty in punk” collection that had ‘a take no prisoners’ approach to the topic. From the first model weaving her way through a forest of giant F’s at the beginning of the Fendi catwalk, wearing a fur coat in neon shades, to the last exit that consisted of a shaggy fur coat with what looked to be a glowing orange fur vertebrae in front; this collection was a salute to the exquisite artisanal talent of the craftsmen Fendi has cultivated in its ateliers.
In the program notes Lagerfeld had provided a few of his iconic sketches to feed the audience’s appetite before the show. On one of the more dramatic drawings the designer scrawled the phrase “Fur is Fendi, Fendi is Fur”. Every item in this show had a fur element to it. From the multicolored fur mohawks and fur trimmed sunglasses to the classic baguette bags and the fur swathed shoes, the show pounded home Lagerfeld’s message.
The variety of treatments used to create the different colorful coats -from shaving and knitting various types of fur together to blending fur and leather into one outfit, or crafting a rather minimalistic coat by merging one side in fur and the other in fabric- was impressive to behold.
As strong as all the fur elements were it was not the only story Fendi was trying to tell this season. There was an intriguing play on rounded shapes that added a somewhat feminine element into the mix. It showed up as a curved waistline on a slim skirt that rounded down to expose a model’s hips that had been tattooed with the Fendi logo. A pure white cashmere dress was crafted out of two panels of fabric so that the front of the skirt scooped down low and wrapped under the arms finishing at the back of the shoulders. One standout butter soft navy leather perfecto was cut in a slightly voluminous shape to help accent the arcing edge of the eye-catching jacket.
No review would be complete without talking about those famous Fendi bags. Silvia Fendi reworked many of her classic bags (the Baguette, the Peekaboo) in fur but it was the new Selleria collection that really strived to underline the workmanship that goes into each piece. The name of every bag is followed by a number, for example Anna 1322 or Adele 1328, to indicate the number of hand made stitches it took to bring the bag to life. They made a perfect final touch to this dynamic collection.
- Jessica Michault
Author and a host - Daria Shapovalova for NOWFASHION
Cameraman - Yuriy Semenyuk
Journalist - Anton Yeremenko