Fifty Shades of Blue in Paris

Paris has still got the blues. Needless to say, with the current political climate both in France and abroad; the ongoing concerns about immigration and racial issues, the never-ending discussions around Brexit and the rise of the far-right in France. This season, fashion designers might have one good reason or two to feel anxious about the future.

 


The Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2017 ready-to-wear show in Paris (by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)

 

And those who think that the luxury industry - which is by essence an elitist construct - is not affected by the current political instability will be proven wrong. In fact, earlier this week LVMH announced that the company has been having issues welcoming all of the 21 designers preselected for the upcoming LVMH Prize for Young Designers to its cocktail and presentation event in Paris. One designer, the New York-based Russian designer Maria Kazakova, had not been able to secure travel permits despite her efforts to join. A fact that forced us fashion professionals to start Paris Fashion Week with a gloomy feeling, realizing that the free mobility of our international industry, is no longer guaranteed.

But blue is not just a feeling, it can also transgress into a powerful and aesthetically appealing symbol. In fact, blue has been an obsession for centuries. Blue – lapis lazuli blue, cobalt, navy, azure, denim, electric and baby blue, turquoise, indigo and aquamarine – many artists and designers have been fascinated by this color, its cultural and psychological meaning and its strong visual impact.

 


The Mugler Fall/Winter 2017 ready-to-wear show in Paris (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)

 

In fact, this season many designers like Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent, Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior, Virgil Abloh at Off-White, David Koma at Mugler, as well as Haider Ackermann, Issey Miyake, Christian Wijnants, Undercover, Elie Saab and the new label Beautiful People, interpreted these symbolically charged hues. And their efforts paid off.

Beyond the meaning of melancholia and uncertainty, blue is also the symbol of the Holy Spirit, Kings and Queens, and also the one of the working class, which makes it one of the colors that has the strongest high/low dichotomy. Something that is particularly interesting for designers to explore, as the current luxury-street trend is easily epitomized by blue's both regal and proletarian identity.

Jumping on this color trend, Maria Grazia Chiuri dedicated her Fall/Winter 2017 collection to navy blue, the favorite color of Monsieur Christian Dior. "Among all the colors, navy blue is the only which can ever compete with black, it has all the same qualities," read the show's official statement. Interpreting this specific shade in many different variations; crafted from knit, herringbone, taffeta and velvet. Chiuri designed a range of sumptuous cocktail numbers, evening dresses, capes and coats; but also added bomber jackets, loose pants and shirts designed in a decisive urban spirit. This eclectic mix-and-match symbolized the current will of luxury brands to add streetwear aesthetics and elements to their brand's style inventory – a trend where both regal and proletarian codes collide, so what better color than blue to express this statement?

 


The Saint-Laurent Fall/Winter 2017 ready-to-wear show in Paris (by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)

 

Saint Laurent's Anthony Vaccarello, for his part, also acknowledged the powerful meaning of blue. Using a striking deep electric blue for his leggy fetish cocktail numbers and sharp evening pieces, which in this case didn’t come with any melancholy or nostalgia, but with an actual empowering feeling. At Saint Laurent, shoulders are now sharp, ‘80s new wave flavored evening pieces mingle with utilitarian outerwear on the runway, and luxurious sophistication flirts with glittery bad taste. Without forgetting that Vaccarello’s many silhouettes were sported by a mixed gender and multiracial model casting. In fact, Vaccarello made a statement with his second outing for the French maison, proving that his new take on Saint Laurent could be more transgressive than the one under former Creative Director, Heidi Slimane.  Something that suggests that feeling blue is not only about being melancholic, or depressed and sad. In fashion, it can actually become a reflection on bold and self-assured femininity. It symbolizes a form of transgression where electrifying change and progress are in the air. And this amount of positivity is much needed nowadays, to say the least.

 

Read the latest fashion features and trend reports in NOWmagazine.

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Hiroshi Fujiwara Designs Moncler's Latest Collection
By Rebecca Hitchon
Italian luxury brand Moncler rolled out today a new collection designed in collaboration with...
By Rebecca Hitchon
Italian luxury brand Moncler rolled out today a new collection designed in collaboration with globally influential streetwear designer and Japanese hip hop DJ Hiroshi Fujiwara."I wanted to create a new standard, delivering the message that Moncler loves the mountain, which is where the story...
Italian luxury brand Moncler rolled out today a new collection designed in collaboration with globally influential streetwear designer and Japanese hip hop DJ Hiroshi Fujiwara."I wanted to create a new standard, delivering the message that Moncler loves the mountain, which is where the story started," said Fujiwara about the 7 Moncler Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara collection. This message is...
Kering Sets New Biodiversity Targets
By Alice Ierace
Global luxury group Kering has announced a dedicated biodiversity strategy with a series of new...
By Alice Ierace
Global luxury group Kering has announced a dedicated biodiversity strategy with a series of new targets in order to achieve a 'net positive' impact on biodiversity by 2025.Aligned with its long-term commitment to sustainability, the group’s new biodiversity strategy outlines steps to not only...
Global luxury group Kering has announced a dedicated biodiversity strategy with a series of new targets in order to achieve a 'net positive' impact on biodiversity by 2025.Aligned with its long-term commitment to sustainability, the group’s new biodiversity strategy outlines steps to not only minimize biodiversity loss across its global supply chains but also to support nature and create net...
ALIITA: A Sparkling Family Affair
By Elisa Carassai
Family affairs are known to be a tradition amongst Italian fashion brands. The Missoni's, the...
By Elisa Carassai
Family affairs are known to be a tradition amongst Italian fashion brands. The Missoni's, the Fendi's, the Ferragamo's and the Castiglioni's, are just a few of the renown names that come to mind when thinking of the fashion empires that keep it in the family. One of these is Aliita, the jewellery...
Family affairs are known to be a tradition amongst Italian fashion brands. The Missoni's, the Fendi's, the Ferragamo's and the Castiglioni's, are just a few of the renown names that come to mind when thinking of the fashion empires that keep it in the family. One of these is Aliita, the jewellery brand established by Venezuelan-born and Milan-based designer Cynthia Vilchez Castiglioni with the...
Loewe Releases Divine-Inspired Collection
By Alice Ierace
Loewe has released its limited-edition Divine collection, honouring drag queen and actor...
By Alice Ierace
Loewe has released its limited-edition Divine collection, honouring drag queen and actor Divine. “[Divine] was absolutely out of the ordinary. He lived an intense life as a man, performer, character and as a body. For me, it is the embodiment of the principle of self-determination,” explained...
Loewe has released its limited-edition Divine collection, honouring drag queen and actor Divine. “[Divine] was absolutely out of the ordinary. He lived an intense life as a man, performer, character and as a body. For me, it is the embodiment of the principle of self-determination,” explained Jonathan Anderson, creative director of the house.The collection consists primarily of three t-shirts...
H&M Launches New CHIMI Collab
By Rebecca Hitchon
H&M has announced a collaboration with Stockholm-based eyewear brand CHIMI for a summer menswear...
By Rebecca Hitchon
By Rebecca Hitchon
H&M has announced a collaboration with Stockholm-based eyewear brand CHIMI for a summer menswear collection. The CHIMI x H&M collection, which became exclusively available on the H&M website earlier this month, marks CHIMI’s first venture into menswear, after gaining success among the...
H&M has announced a collaboration with Stockholm-based eyewear brand CHIMI for a summer menswear collection. The CHIMI x H&M collection, which became exclusively available on the H&M website earlier this month, marks CHIMI’s first venture into menswear, after gaining success among the Insta-generation for their “inclusive, fun, progressive” sunglasses designs, in the words of Creative Director...
MQBMBQ Celebrates Black Queerness in all its Different Forms
By Sasha Regazzoni
The new three-week long fundraising project denounces white queer racism and black queer...
By Sasha Regazzoni
The new three-week long fundraising project denounces white queer racism and black queer antagonism through photography, literature and film.  Jamaican-born creative Jordan Anderson has long felt concern for the worryingly stagnant direction of the fashion and arts industries and the lack of...
The new three-week long fundraising project denounces white queer racism and black queer antagonism through photography, literature and film.  Jamaican-born creative Jordan Anderson has long felt concern for the worryingly stagnant direction of the fashion and arts industries and the lack of black LGBTQ+ representation within them, hence deciding to take matters into his own hands. “My Queer...
Y/PROJECT's Eclectic Versatility
By Alice Ierace
If there is one thing 2020 has taught us so far is that the...
By Alice Ierace
If there is one thing 2020 has taught us so far is that the show must go on. Even within the fashion industry, months of lockdown and uncertainty haven’t stopped designers and creatives alike to share their work and talent with the world. That's exactly...
If there is one thing 2020 has taught us so far is that the show must go on. Even within the fashion industry, months of lockdown and uncertainty haven’t stopped designers and creatives alike to share their work and talent with the world. That's exactly why, on a sunny June afternoon, Glenn Martens gave me a personal preview of his latest SS21 collection...
New Coalition To Tackle Racism and Discrimination In The Fashion Industry
By Rebecca Hitchon
A coalition of more than 400 Black editors, stylists, models and executives is set to address...
By Rebecca Hitchon
A coalition of more than 400 Black editors, stylists, models and executives is set to address systematic racism and discrimination within the fashion and beauty industries when it launches next month.Co-founded by Teen Vogue Editor-In-Chief Lindsay Peoples Wagner and publicist Sandrine Charles,...
A coalition of more than 400 Black editors, stylists, models and executives is set to address systematic racism and discrimination within the fashion and beauty industries when it launches next month.Co-founded by Teen Vogue Editor-In-Chief Lindsay Peoples Wagner and publicist Sandrine Charles, the Black in Fashion Coalition wants to concentrate industry efforts to fight racism through...