Five Talents from the ArtEz Final Show
It's more about fashion this year," says Matthijs Boelee, Director of Fashion ArtEZ Institute of the Arts in Arnhem. Yesterday, 24 students completed their graduation shows. Last year we noticed loads of eccentricity, this year students were more focused on the clothes. Matthijs Boelee: "But do not get me wrong, it's not at all understated, it's about quality, materials, special treatments and a lot of crafts. I think the level is very high. "It was indeed. Nowfashion picked five of the most impressive collections.
Vera Roggli (Age 23) Rubber Accidents
A work glove covered with an incredible rubber layer, that’s what Vera Roggli based her graduation collection on. The rough glove was smartly combined with a study on the A-line and shape. The experiment with rubber led not only to a new, clear and transparent material, but also a special way to get different fabrics such as silk, to connect with each other.
Roggli fits the rubber compound into different apron-like designs - dresses and skirts - that are worn over each other.
Also, notable are the layered prints with many abstract stripes, but also playful polka dots hidden under a layer of rubber that provide an interesting effect.
Roggli experienced her graduation collection as an educational process, and is happy about the experimental process leading to its creation. "Some things were just coming from accidents. And that would have been simply unthinkable in my previous collections.” Showpiece of the collection is a colourful long dress made out of a collage of different prints and rubber layers. Like all the other pieces, they have to be seen in real life to feel how innovative they are.
Karin Vlug (Age 24) Download Fashion
The hand-stitching and synthetic materials play a major role in the conceptual collection of Karin Vlug. From her first academic year, Vlug knew that she wanted to sew. The reason? Well, she did not want just to stitch yet another pair of trousers or top, she really wanted to come up with new things. And she did.
Karin Vlug showed a young, energetic collection that has seen no machine stitching. Along the catwalk we saw clothes with 90 degrees angles, some in T shapes and rectangles, like her feminine dresses with tunnels connecting elements or her decorated yellow suit jacket with a pattern of laced wires, brought together with endless seams. All pieces had tunnels and incisions and the designs took shape with interwoven laces and ribbons.
The design of the clothing was based on the Ikea concept: put together in a simple manner, a small number of parts to form one piece of furniture. Her vision is to have people downloading her designs and stitching together their own dress.
Wieke Sinnige (Age 25) Kaleidoscopic Fashion
We all know the kaleidoscope is a cylinder that you put on your eye that by turning, gives form to the beautiful patterns. When Wieke Sinnige experienced what it 's like to be in such a kaleidoscope – thanks to an artwork by artist Nicolas cyber Schöffer - she immediately got the idea for her graduation collection: structure, rhythms and chaos. As a specialist in prints and textiles Sinnige designed a colourful collection with reflective three-dimensional embroidery used to decorate pleated organza top and completely covered with plexiglass plates. The ensemble resulting indeed in a kaleidoscopic effect. The most striking pattern was the cubist portrait of Mexican artist Frida Khalo painted by Sinnige himself. The digital printed version of the portrait ended up on a jacket, top and skirt
Chris Wienk (Age 22) Möbius Dresses
"They're like sisters, " said Chris Wienk about the dresses in her graduation collection, where all of her eight designs were based on the same Möbius band concept, a simple 2D strip that has been transformed in complex 3D shapes. Wienk discovered the mathematical Mobius strip in architecture first, then translated it into patterns and shapes made with one piece of textile only. The result is a collection of ingenious feminine evening dresses in satin, with minimalist look. Wienk loves it when a collection has a strong theoretical basis, "I'm always looking for innovative ways to attract attention to interesting clothing but it should never give the feeling of a complicated look." The Möbius dresses are indeed very attractive even if according to Chris Wienk, "You need some kind of contortionist posture to get into them”. From this perspective we could call the collection ‘technical couture’.
Joyce Seggelen (Age 23) Fake Hair and Plexi-Palettes
To get ready for her graduation collection Joyce Seggelen needed inspiration and visited many exhibitions including Dynamo at the Grand Palais to find it. Once there Seggelen was fascinated by the optical black / white paintings that stand by the regularity irregularity of Gerhard von Graevenitz. Think of dot patterns that appears to be moving but the in reality, are not. This inspiration was also combined with totally different things like childish handmade ethnic dolls, turned into a colourful collection with many crafts and surprising effects. A great piece was a feminine evening dress with irregular and enlarged smock effects. Another one was a Modern Baroque jacket with a 3D embroidery, fake hair, plexiglass sequins, fluffy mohair and neon sticks. Other very remarkable pieces were woven tops and jackets whose side panels were woven together into a whole.