Form Follows Function at Lacoste

Intuitive and spot-on as always, designer Marie-Christine Statz, founder of the label Gauchère – French for left-handed—delivered a pared-down collection of rethought tailoring. One that she confronted with radical feminine touches that nevertheless given a boyish je-ne-sais quoi.

A robe-like blazer opened the show and was followed by a wrap-around skirt with long fringes, and a full, Working Girl-evoking suit jacket. On went a pleated skirt with a bodycon tunic with enhanced shoulder pads.

She seemed to experiment with the idea of uniform as a whole: going from a burnt orange leather shirt jacket with matching military pants, to a suit composed of a crossover top and baggy black pants – all sitting nicely somewhere between formal and evening wear.

A hybrid vest coat-gone-coat made an appearance and proved her conceptual strength, as did a corseted leather skirt and button-up shirt - a small twist making a big difference. Which is probably the

best way to describe Gauchère’s touch: sculptural, intricate and sensitive.

“Today better than yesterday and tomorrow less than today! I hate looking back to the past” once said Junko Shimada, the most Parisian of all Japanese designers. And her latest collection certainly kept her promise, updating her classics to contemporary silhouettes and fresh contrasts. Her iconic Perfecto came in bright blue and worn with an aquarelle painted chiffon skirt, or a gold A-line silk version.

As a nod to the 90s, she introduced a (very) cropped knitted cardigan and a low waist skirt, putting bellies back on-trend à la Britney in her heyday.

A washed-out tartan coat came with a split, in a babydoll cut and chic enough to double up as a dress. Just like the short puffer jacket that followed, with imprinted cherubic faces and simply worn with candy-blue tights. Confronting wardrobes, she paired a long spotted petticoat with a long woollen dress with balloon sleeves.

Shimada further experimented with textiles and atmospheres by layering velour, lamé and satin, gold and workwear blue – and ultimately sensual, bold and timeless.

Since her arrival at the head of Lacoste, British-born Louise Trotter have been reinterpreting and fine-tuning René Lacoste’s heritage – one that is simultaneously functional and luxurious, without one contradicting the other.

This season could be summed up by Modernist architect Louis Sullivan’s motto that “form follows function” – rather than the other way round as so often in women’s history of fashion.

Bella Hadid gloriously opened the show in a pine green pocketed shirt and matching pleated pants, nodding at classical tennis coaches’ outfits.

Trotter went on to break down and rethink the house’s staples, starting with the polo shirt, its bestseller, in crocodile-green with graphic white detailing and a classic shirt collar. The house’s fetish animal popped up sliced and spread over fitted white blouses, or as a mini all-over print.

In burgundy or chocolate brown, tracksuits came flowing in, impeccably tailored to give off a sleek jumpsuit vibe.

Her British heritage also shown through: sleeveless striped cardigans, pop socks, and tartan-printed shirts evoked schoolgirls’ uniforms. All came complete with caps and berets, hinting both at tennis players and UK counter-culture.

As for the result? Think of it as the fortunate encounter between Parisian savoir-faire and a London edge.

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
How is Italy’s Independent Scene Reacting to Covid?
By Elisa Carassai
While Milan Fashion Week may be known for its calendar...
By Elisa Carassai
While Milan Fashion Week may be known for its calendar surrounded by a smattering of fashion behemoths such as Prada, Armani and Gucci, slowly but surely, a series of young talents have emerged during the years, favoured by industry insiders and...
While Milan Fashion Week may be known for its calendar surrounded by a smattering of fashion behemoths such as Prada, Armani and Gucci, slowly but surely, a series of young talents have emerged during the years, favoured by industry insiders and celebrities alike.    Still, given the current situation, how will this crisis impact their...
Covid and The Ugly Side of Fast-Fashion
By Alice Ierace
Remember the fable of the ant and the cicada? Let’s use...
By Alice Ierace
Remember the fable of the ant and the cicada? Let’s use that fable as a comparison for the fashion world. While there are many designers nowadays thriving on the glitz and glam of social media and its fast-paced tempo, some others instead, prefer to...
Remember the fable of the ant and the cicada? Let’s use that fable as a comparison for the fashion world. While there are many designers nowadays thriving on the glitz and glam of social media and its fast-paced tempo, some others instead, prefer to conduct their businesses in a rather tranquil way, silently working their way up the ladder in order to...
Massimo Alba: The Purist of Slow Fashion
By Elisa Carassai
Remember the fable of the ant and the cicada? Let’s use...
By Elisa Carassai
Remember the fable of the ant and the cicada? Let’s use that fable as a comparison for the fashion world. While there are many designers nowadays thriving on the glitz and glam of social media and its fast-paced tempo, some others instead, prefer to...
Remember the fable of the ant and the cicada? Let’s use that fable as a comparison for the fashion world. While there are many designers nowadays thriving on the glitz and glam of social media and its fast-paced tempo, some others instead, prefer to conduct their businesses in a rather tranquil way, silently working their way up the ladder in order to...
The Best Beauty Apps For Some Home Pampering
By Alice Ierace
As the world continues its fight against COVID-19, the...
By Alice Ierace
As the world continues its fight against COVID-19, the days spent in self-isolation seem to get longer and longer. Amongst all the Instagram lives, free workout videos and the constant baking, we mustn’t forget to take care of our beauty and wellbeing....
As the world continues its fight against COVID-19, the days spent in self-isolation seem to get longer and longer. Amongst all the Instagram lives, free workout videos and the constant baking, we mustn’t forget to take care of our beauty and wellbeing. Luckily, we are surrounded by a multitude of apps and, in the past couple of years, the beauty world...
Pitti Announces New Calendar
By Elisa Carassai
After last week's previous announcements which declared...
By Elisa Carassai
By Elisa Carassai
After last week's previous announcements which declared the postponement of Milano Moda Uomo and the Paris shows to September, the Pitti Group also divulged the change of dates of their upcoming fairs and events.   The majority of the fairs will be...
After last week's previous announcements which declared the postponement of Milano Moda Uomo and the Paris shows to September, the Pitti Group also divulged the change of dates of their upcoming fairs and events.   The majority of the fairs will be hosted in September (the 98th edition of the show will be hosted from the 2nd to the 4th of...
Huda Kattan Pledges $100.000 in Support of Struggling Make-up Artists
By Alice Ierace
Beauty icon, entrepreneur and founder of Huda Beauty, Huda...
By Alice Ierace
Beauty icon, entrepreneur and founder of Huda Beauty, Huda Kattan, has pledged to donate $100,000 to support freelance make-up artists who are struggling during the COVID-19 crisis.   In a raw and emotional Instagram video, she explained: “When...
Beauty icon, entrepreneur and founder of Huda Beauty, Huda Kattan, has pledged to donate $100,000 to support freelance make-up artists who are struggling during the COVID-19 crisis.   In a raw and emotional Instagram video, she explained: “When coronavirus first hit, I think everyone was scared about like ‘how can I protect my loved ones?’ And...
L'Oréal Acquires the Mugler Brands and Azzaro Fragrances
By Alice Ierace
Beauty brand L’Oréal has announced that, after obtaining the necessary authorisations from the...
By Alice Ierace
Beauty brand L’Oréal has announced that, after obtaining the necessary authorisations from the relevant authorities, it has finalised the acquisition of the Mugler brands and Azzaro fragrances from Clarins Group.As it stands, the companies include Mugler, Thierry Mugler (Fashion), Clarins...
Beauty brand L’Oréal has announced that, after obtaining the necessary authorisations from the relevant authorities, it has finalised the acquisition of the Mugler brands and Azzaro fragrances from Clarins Group.As it stands, the companies include Mugler, Thierry Mugler (Fashion), Clarins Fragrance Group (CFG), CFG France, Cosmeurop and CFG UK – activities that, in 2018, represented...
Marco Zanini’s Quest for Independence
By Elisa Carassai
Marco Zanini is no rookie in the fashion system. With a...
By Elisa Carassai
Marco Zanini is no rookie in the fashion system. With a background that counts experiences at Versace, Halston, Schiaparelli, Rochas and Santoni, the designer has, over time, developed a cult following his appointment at Rochas. It comes however, as a...
Marco Zanini is no rookie in the fashion system. With a background that counts experiences at Versace, Halston, Schiaparelli, Rochas and Santoni, the designer has, over time, developed a cult following his appointment at Rochas. It comes however, as a surprise, to why an experienced designer like Zanini would want to take a ‘gamble’ on himself and...