Formalwear and Future Nostalgia

Day 2 of Paris Fashion Week kicked off at a derelict building on the 15eme arrondissement with the Études show. The Parisian collective has made a name for itself by cleverly anticipating trends ad infusing them with their own identity, creating unpretentious, super covetable collections. 

If this season was no exception, that means we’re in for a tailoring comeback: pleated and tapered trousers were worn with single-button front blazers and actual shoes, made in collaboration with Parisian brand Adieu — is the return of shoes and the demise of ubiquitous sneakers actually the season’s most noteworthy trend? — came in sepulchral black but also in a checkered version, and were occasionally mixed with leather elements. A silver leather trench and trousers were among the collection’s eye-catchers. 

The brand’s statement chunky knits were also ubiquitous, this time with intarsia-ed motifs depicting galaxies, skulls, a ball of fire, and a colorful mapamundi. They all complimented a section of thermal camera-inspired suits, oversized coats and a puffa, all carefully styled and edited into exactly the kind of looks Jérémy Égry, Aurélien Arbet and José Lamali know we all want to wear at the end of the day. 

Effortless tailoring was de rigueur at Luke Meier’s menswear show for OAMC.  Meier’s collection brought a smooth touch to sartorial wear and sought the perfect balance between urban staple pieces and fluid tailoring. The designer’s wardrobe for men’s conveyed a laid-back feeling with functional, easy-to-wear outerwear, photo-printed oversized ponchos, and cool bucket hats that made a nod to the ‘90s. 

Earlier that day, Walter Van Beirendonck did what he does best and featured thought-provoking creations, one outfit at a time. The Belgian designer’s menswear offering comprised punk-influenced silhouettes in a kaleidoscope of eye-popping colors with both a futuristic and nostalgic ‘70s flower-power twist. Oversized, cartoony spike-applications were featured on the men’s torsos and faces as a form of protection from the harsh times we’re living. 

The collection’s name — “War” — hit the nail right on the head: Van Beirendonck addressed social and environmental issues that are currently causing much ink to flow. His prints featured alarming statements such as “Save Planet Earth,” “Stop Violation of Privacy Now,” and even “I Hate Fashion Copycats.” “I’ve always included political messages in my work," he explained in an official statement. “But today more than ever, it's essential to make these kinds of statements.”

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Slimane's Celine Chases Enduring Fame
By Gianluca Cantaro
Hedi Slimane seemed to state it bluntly: like it or not...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Hedi Slimane seemed to state it bluntly: like it or not this is me and now I'm doing it at Celine. His language is clear and hard wired in everybody's mind. No surprises, no shake-ups, just him and his image. The fleeting DNA of the french Maison easily...
Hedi Slimane seemed to state it bluntly: like it or not this is me and now I'm doing it at Celine. His language is clear and hard wired in everybody's mind. No surprises, no shake-ups, just him and his image. The fleeting DNA of the french Maison easily lays itself open to different personal interpretations, as it has already happened with previous...
The Devil Is In The Details
By Alice Pfeiffer
Philosopher Walter Benjamin introduced a concept that he named the “optical unconscious”,...
By Alice Pfeiffer
By Alice Pfeiffer
Philosopher Walter Benjamin introduced a concept that he named the “optical unconscious”, referring to the most infinite details that our eyes perceive without us realizing - but which are nevertheless generating associations and emotions.This is something Christian Wijnants seems to master: by...
Philosopher Walter Benjamin introduced a concept that he named the “optical unconscious”, referring to the most infinite details that our eyes perceive without us realizing - but which are nevertheless generating associations and emotions.This is something Christian Wijnants seems to master: by subtly confronting references and playing with nuances, he gives an impalpable aura to his...
Satoshi Kondo’s Vision for Miyake
By Gianluca Cantaro
Ise is a small Japanese city in the central Mie Prefecture located on the eastern edge of the Kii...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Ise is a small Japanese city in the central Mie Prefecture located on the eastern edge of the Kii Peninsula. Here lies a big shrine complex centred on two main buildings that are the heart of the Shinto religion and it is famous for its tradition that has lasted over 1.300 years: every two...
Ise is a small Japanese city in the central Mie Prefecture located on the eastern edge of the Kii Peninsula. Here lies a big shrine complex centred on two main buildings that are the heart of the Shinto religion and it is famous for its tradition that has lasted over 1.300 years: every two decades the old shrines are dismantled, and new ones are built on an adjacent site. Why? Among the...
Shanghai Fashion Week Announces Special Edition
By Alice Ierace
Shanghai Fashion Week has received understanding and support from various parties in the industry...
By Alice Ierace
Shanghai Fashion Week has received understanding and support from various parties in the industry since the decision to the postpone AW20 edition was made due to the pneumonia epidemic caused by the coronavirus.To further implement the task of epidemic prevention while protecting the health and...
Shanghai Fashion Week has received understanding and support from various parties in the industry since the decision to the postpone AW20 edition was made due to the pneumonia epidemic caused by the coronavirus.To further implement the task of epidemic prevention while protecting the health and safety of partners, audience and staff, SFW has decided to make changes regarding the organisation of...
Paco Rabanne's Poetic Female Stength
By Gianluca Cantaro
At Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena presented an exquisite collection which celebrated the strength...
By Gianluca Cantaro
At Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena presented an exquisite collection which celebrated the strength of the women and their freedom. "I wanted to highlight their power," explained the designer backstage after the show. "In today's difficult world, they need to be strong and express it. But I also...
At Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena presented an exquisite collection which celebrated the strength of the women and their freedom. "I wanted to highlight their power," explained the designer backstage after the show. "In today's difficult world, they need to be strong and express it. But I also wanted to emphasize their romance. To do this, I played with a collision of different eras from where I...
Paris When It Sizzles
By Alice Pfeiffer
Draped lace, floral patterns, python prints, and a blazer with a plunging V-line opened Atlein’s...
By Alice Pfeiffer
By Alice Pfeiffer
Draped lace, floral patterns, python prints, and a blazer with a plunging V-line opened Atlein’s show. Purposely quoting conventional codes of femininity, designer Antonin Tron intended to parallel the notion of natural beauty (both in its organic references and its revisiting of classic...
Draped lace, floral patterns, python prints, and a blazer with a plunging V-line opened Atlein’s show. Purposely quoting conventional codes of femininity, designer Antonin Tron intended to parallel the notion of natural beauty (both in its organic references and its revisiting of classic garments) with natural concerns. Designer by day and activist by night, Tron produced the collection...
Stylish Conversation Piece at Lanvin
By Gianluca Cantaro
Bruno Sialelli at Lanvin did exquisite research into the...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Bruno Sialelli at Lanvin did exquisite research into the Maison's archives and imagined a kind of bridge between Jeanne Lanvin and today's world – the one he wants to narrate. The show took place in the Manufacture des Gobelins – a historic tapestry...
Bruno Sialelli at Lanvin did exquisite research into the Maison's archives and imagined a kind of bridge between Jeanne Lanvin and today's world – the one he wants to narrate. The show took place in the Manufacture des Gobelins – a historic tapestry factory founded in 1662 in Paris – and it displayed old Arazzi from different centuries. The cosy...
A Day Full of Parisian Promise
By Alice Pfeiffer
Rest assured should there have been any remaining doubts: sportswear is very much over and done...
By Alice Pfeiffer
By Alice Pfeiffer
Rest assured should there have been any remaining doubts: sportswear is very much over and done with — something Casey Cadwallader proved by showing a line of powerfully sexy clothes at Mugler.Drawing for the brand’s archives and its love for figure-hugging garments enhanced by bold proportions,...
Rest assured should there have been any remaining doubts: sportswear is very much over and done with — something Casey Cadwallader proved by showing a line of powerfully sexy clothes at Mugler.Drawing for the brand’s archives and its love for figure-hugging garments enhanced by bold proportions, he showed an army of belted leather overcoats, knotted shirts and lamé pants, that contrasted with...