Francesco Scognamiglio Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2012 Milan
There was what looked like a set of lungs in the Francesco Scognamiglio show accenting shirts, first as a print and then manifesting itself as actual objects on blouses. It added a surrealist touch to a collection filled with sharply-tailored pieces.
A white dress with black prints and leather at the chest was perfectly cut to the body, its pleated sleeves and flare had just the right proportions. A white coat with large leather-edged lapels was motorcycle-mod, while a black leather dress felt dark, experimental, and minimalist.
The collection felt like an experiment in range, a show of ideas. There were flat leather skirts, simple with a sexy edge. A leather pantsuit was pop-star worthy, the waist of the jacket cinched in; ruching and ruffles gave it a feminine feel. An emerald green dress was bordering on kitsch. In contrast, briefcases and clutches, matched with finely-tailored coats, were strict, even staid. It was like looking from left, to right, and left again, what with the surrealist ‘‘lungs’’ towards the show’s end; but with fashion the way it is- ever-changing- who’s to say this is a bad thing? The designer clearly isn’t afraid to mix things up, a trait his famous clients- who’ve included Madonna and Lady Gaga- surely admire.
-Ria de Borja