For Francesco Scognamiglio, women are, “Paladins of the 21st century, subtle guests in fabulous locales."
With this confident, strong woman in mind, he put forth a wardrobe in which the warrior’s armor is less a physical barrier and more an immaterial reflection of her attitude. For the warmer months, one of Francesco Scognamiglio’s favorite schticks is to slick translucent fabric over the skin. Barely a gauze, mind you, something to give a soft focus rather than obscure the body from view. It follows that the collection he proposed would not be for shy wallflowers, with its no-holds-barred (or hidden) vision of a modern day Aphrodite.
And while there’s no denying he cuts a mean pair of trousers, nighttime is definitely the witching hour for Scognamiglio. His eveningwear slanted towards lingerie with his applications of lace; there were yards of sheer fabric at play here, embellished and sometimes not. Short or long, his variations put the delicacy of the material and an eye for the striking on a collision course of glamor. Embellished netting and prints felt like a fresh interpretation of his otherwise solid universe of pastels – baby blues, creamy whites and even a questionable peach tone.
But as lovely as his self-avowed references to Madame Grès or the Thirties were, one couldn’t shake the feeling that he was rehashing a thinly veiled catalogue raisonné of his favorite notions. While not boring, the collection offered almost no salient points to vivify its discourse.