Frankie Morello Menswear Fall Winter 2012 Milan

Never boring, Frankie Morello, a design partnership between Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti that began in 1999, is the wildcard in the Italian pack when it comes to Milan mens fashion week. True to form, the first looks out of the gate were suits encrusted with spikes while a two-man band called Burger Girl provided the soundtrack.

The collection gathered coherence the further into the last half it progressed but there were touches on the way. Spiked shirt collars matched with a high buttoned, double-breasted jacket and yellow silk tie over three quarter length trousers and studded lace-up creeper/brogue hybrids or maybe the grey camo print suit. The show became interesting once it moved from the suits onto the Californian bohemian meets Cobain rocker section. The designers started to play with textures, knitwear met heavily embroidered t-shirts and velvet and, spectacularly, shiny glass beading was sewn into utility jackets adding a very psychedelic element to the show that had definitely taken an Indian turn by this point. We were on a road trip to India complete with bindi's and there was a shaman…..

Nobody present at the show will be able to forget the dulcit tones of singer Benjamin Dukhan, lead singer of Burger Girl. He took us on a journey oh yes. It was clear he’d thought about the journey that the designers wanted to take and sang lyrics dedicated to Frankie Morello amongst which were my favourite: “if you want to talk to me / go through my agency” – WORD. Did I mention the naked guy? Check the photos.

- Sarah Hay

Soundtrack. A live gig by Burger Girl Myspace