A faultless tutorial in cut and tailoring, Marie-Christine Statz’s fall-winter collection for the still emerging label Gauchère, was plentiful in design and variety. Inspired by menswear and menswear tailoring, more specifically separates and those removable elements found within masculine dress, Statz vision was that of independent pieces being put together to make completely new outfits.
The set-up: a small bare room, safe for a large glass in the centre. It was behind this that guests were able to see the partial dressing and undressing of the models by Statz herself. An ecdysis of sorts, Statz later explained that this was done in order to demonstrate not only the versatility of the pieces but also the diverseness and cohesiveness the collection.
Large boxy jackets were used as dresses or were juxtaposed with slim fit capris worn over tailored pants. Pinstripes, redolent of varsity uniforms, were used invariably with the house print – a hoary checkered wool. Statz also introduced touches of cobalt blue and mustard - or okra, as she prefers to describe the hue – as a way to break up the staidness and monotony of the black, white and grey. Here, the classic pieces done in the check were accented by plush knits – a first time ever addition to the line.
But this wasn’t a collection to simply recite the classics. Statz is a constructivist at heart, and the traditional gave way to modular, more experimental pieces. Rectilinear knee length vests and coats with abbreviated backs, a jacket-dress hybrid revealing intricate knife pleating, or a lapel-less perforated coat in mustard – were some instances where the designer dealt a modernist touch.
It was only when the show ended that we noticed the complement of models was only six. But such was the range of pieces presented, the use of space and the brisk pace of the collection that under-less experienced hands would have been just another labored menswear-inspired collection. If Statz’s aim was to present a collection of well-tailored beautiful pieces, then judging from these looks it’s safe to say she’s succeeded in every respect.