Genny Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 Milan

For his third collection for Genny, Gabriele Colangelo offered a clean and structured approach to femininity. Very much inspired by some of Sonia Delaunay’s paintings, Colangelo used natural colors and played with nuances. Half way between a patchwork and a structured puzzle of appliqués, the geometric motives emphasized clean lines.

Colangelo’s spring/summer graphic intarsia had been printed on silk cady and leather and had been laser cut on leather and applied on dresses and accessories.

No frills or extras, side slits and trimmings underlined the shapes of the garments. Tapestry jacquards were three-dimensional with metallic threads in various tones and gauges.
The show took place in palazzo Bagatti Valsecchi where the atmosphere was cheerful but the tone formal. If Colangelo studied seriously Sonia Delaunay’s textile designs he must have had some fun while creating the collection as shown by his work on the iconic perfecto jacket, that came out in fine fabrics such as the one made of printed silk.

Gabriele Colangelo has brought some patterns to revive Genny, which has built its reputation on strong tailoring. However it seemed that the Italian designer is still searching its place and fit.

- Delphine Hervieu