Among the eight finalists of this year’s LVMH Designer Prize was Atlein from Antonin Tron, the Paris-born designer who studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and graduated in 2008. It was last year, three seasons ago, in March of 2016, that he made his debut and has justifiably earned a buzz ever since.
Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION
Interested by the body, its tension and movement, Tron’s aesthetic for the brand falls into a bracket of clothes that aren’t cluttered and fussy like so many others out there, and so consequently straight away feel modern. It’s those subtle quirks and changes – say a biker jacket rendered in a safari shade of nude and worn with a kind of cycling short – that make it. Or a reinterpretation of standard staples such as a sports polo shirt that has sheer-shimmer overlay draped over it to create a more fluid silhouette as opposed to something that is usually considered potentially more masculine.
Tron really got the sweeping diagonal cuts on jackets right – so that they did up as an elegant curve contouring the body. Dresses hugged and ruched into all the right places, gathered at the derriere, even, to really shape and flatter. It was clean and sexy, precise without being cold or clinical.
There was a splash of those mismatching skewiff cuts and splices that are fashion right now but they were controlled, not like the oversaturation we’ve been experiencing. An earthy palette, too, made this all the more relevant and refreshing – because those sporty semantics couldn’t so readily be detected and instead a new context was created. And, consequently, also something interesting, new – and covetable. This is a Paris Fashion Week highlight.