A dream of a stroll around the sumptuous Persian gardens of the Moghul Empire. Then, back to reality and the Musée des Archives Nationales; guardian of Louis XVI’s Iron Chest and protector of Marie Antoinette’s letters as well as an assortment of her treasures. This is Giambattista Valli’s starting point for his spring/summer 2017 couture collection. A couture dedicated to a woman who is elegantly out of the box, extravagant, irreverent and chic. “Unconventional women who aren’t scared of real beauty: curious, experimental, unusual, with a nomadic soul. And above all they are in charge of their own femininity.” This is the mantra that dominates the backstage in an homage to women. All 46 looks sprinkled with special jewels: precious pieces of haute joaillerie by Beccellati. A monologue, starting from a mini cocktail tunic, a brodée of ostrich feathers and finishing with a multi-layered tulle gown in lime green, masterful in its lightness. Through notes on the piano and violins with faraway voices reciting poetry, move the artistic muses in simple tunics, crinkled and adorned with micro-pearl beads, or wearing mini dresses in virginal lace and palazzo pyjamas with a retro vibe. When they’re not wearing floral crinoline and mini skirts with long tulle trains or strips of voile. With trails bordered with ruches, flowing parachute skirts and monastic tunics, small fur accents peek out of folkloric styles and adorn figures with razor cut hair in bandanas that seems almost casual, the children of a rich understatement. Meanwhile, proportions grow and become more and more imperial as the evening approaches, courtesan proportions and clouds of delicate tulle paired with simple T-shirts in sumptuous broderie.
By Giampietro Baudo - MFF Magazine for Fashion