Lines and squares abounded on the Giambatitsta Valli runway, where there was little color, save for red, maroon and touches of gold. A long-sleeved dark maroon dress with speckles of black sparkled as if a disco ball’s gleaming surface had come undone and slightly showered the fabric. The shine felt glam but the cut remained Valli-elegant, shoulder seams right where the shoulder ends. Secretary blouses looked pretty amidst the sparkly looks. A long silver, gray and black dress with stripes down the chest a criss cross print on the skirt had fair appeal while the following look was more punk-ish-dark-glam, with shreds of fabric dangling from the hips of a proper silk skirt.
The silhouettes for the season were varied. The first coat out was loose and felt relaxed, something not often seen in the designer’s collections; pants had a cropped, boyish appeal. Styled with velvet bedroom-slipper shoes with a gold band on the heel (it was good to know that these touches of polish were evident in flats too; Valli couldn’t have altered his brand code in one collection), the effect was lounge-y and comfortable.
A shiny gold coat was in line with the jewel-and-gem-inspired looks on the FW 2012 Parisian runway and looked to have the texture of croc leather; its squares matched the blocks of colour and graphic theme of the collection.
The collection showed some range if not rigour while maintaining the brand’s tony image. It’s an approach that could work well for growth.
-Ria de Borja