Review by Jessica Michault - Editor in Chief
We all have to grow up sometime. Although, it could be argued that Giambattista Valli’s aesthetic was always very grown up and sophisticated. And those who make that case would be correct. But as much as his collections were beautifully conceived and executed, they often lived in a rarified world far away from the demands of everyday life. However, this season Valli solved his sartorial quandary with a show that was both pulchritudinous and practical.
“I have matured,” said the designer after the show as a throng of fans and clients streamed backstage to congratulate him. “This show is about my girls growing up, getting married, having babies and making things that are practical for them,” elaborated the designer referring to a close knit pack of beautiful it-girls who wear the designer’s creations religiously.
It has been eight years since Valli started his signature brand. And it was only with this collection that he felt he was experienced enough to introduce a bag collection into the mix. The structure bags, with the instantly recognizable gold medallion closure and sensible straps, made for a nice addition to this well conceived collection.
What also probably helped give the show was its new found focus is Valli’s choice to start a haute couture line. It is there where he can let his imagination run wild. Thus allowing the ready-to-wear breath with modernity and sensible femininity.
What that translated to on the catwalk of his fall/winter 2013 show were pieces, predominately in tones of black and white, that were decidedly luxe (fur, beaded embellishments, pony hair deck shoes) but down to earth too. Dresses with easy draped chiffon skirts – sometimes with fur panels at the front, fantastic outerwear – including a mint green coat covered in a crystal flower design and animal print dresses- a few of which proved themselves to be crafted out of devoree velvet that all looked like winners.
If this is Valli finally feeling fully formed as a designer, then stylish women around the world can rest easy for at least the next thirty years.
- Jessica Michault