Gianfranco Ferre Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Milan
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Showing at the Palazzo della Permanente for the first time having moved out of its Via Pontaccio headquarters last September marked a fresh start for the house, according to its show notes, as an elegant new backdrop for displaying the “architectonic” compositions of its collection.

The soft pinging of cymbals and bells preceding the show hinted at the clothes’ strong, perhaps too strong, Asian influences, kicking off with a long white satin jacket with oversized peaked lapels that morphed into wide belts that curled around the chest. 

The line’s imposing volumes, and concepts got a bit carried away, with among the missteps jackets stuffed into the tops of high-waist skirts cinched with obi-style belts.

Better were the pared down black ensembles, like a minimalist cape coat and a belted black dress and collarless coat coupling that allowed the accessories to do the talking.

The finale of terracotta and black Samurai-flavored gowns in long layered panels of duchesse satin that billowed open in movement made an impact, but, like the majority of the pieces, looked disconnected from the real world.

- Katya Foreman

 

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