For the fall/winter 2014 season designer Giorgio Armani is bringing menswear back to the body. This show wasn’t about padded fabric or thick layers of clothing piled high to create a sense of mass. Instead Armani is challenging his men to let their true silhouettes shine out with outfits that hug the male form in forgiving fabrics.
There was a sense of easy and elegant comfort to this entire collection. When Armani wasn’t sending out supple sweaters with relaxed drawstring pants and suits in his favorite velvet fabrics, he created jackets that suggested cardigan ancestry with their raglan sleeves and form fitting cuts. As for the cardigans that did show up in the collection, the designer smartly stayed clear of going for any grandfatherly connotations, and instead gave them an urban attitude.
Another great touch to this show, which unsurprisingly kept to a somber color palate of charcoal grays, browns, blues and blacks, was Armani’s use of waistcoats. A large portion of the ensembles featured a double breaded waistcoat, often held to the body with eight buttons. This addition helped the give the collection both another aspect of cocooning the body but also a bit of structure to the unfussy fashion.
Armani is a massive player in the menswear world. But this season the maestro has become a gentle fashion giant.