As a woman in a menswear world this past week at LCM there have been no end of looks trotting down the runway that I have found myself wanting to swipe for myself. Yes, admittedly, there have actually been some womenswear options too, as there always are, but it was specifically the pieces sported by the boys for which I found myself compiling a mental shopping list.
Sibling menswear Spring/Summer 2017 show, London, by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION
It’s an occupational hazard – especially when your own wardrobe is full of oversized streetwear elements, which of course is a genre that will always continue to find favour on the menswear catwalks. In fact, the overall breakdown of LCM tends to go a little like this: traditional Savile Row (which one can’t help but feel is slightly dwindling of late); streetwear (wearable style and attitude-led cool); conceptual-wear (the talking points). So there was definitely a third of a chance this was going to happen. It did.
A photo posted by J.W.ANDERSON (@jw_anderson) on Jun 14, 2016 at 6:33am PDT
We already know that a JW Anderson bag was high on the hit list and that collections from Craig Green, Matthew Miller, Wales Bonner, and Fashion East’s Rottingdean Bazaar got a thumbs-up, but the last day saw a few additions that needed to be added to that list. Here goes:
Katie Eary menswear Spring/Summer 2017 show, London, by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION
Katie Eary’s splash into the sea for Spring/Summer 2017 made for a bright – and self-confessed reflective – collection full of great shirts and hoodies with an Americana feel, sharks and barracudas to be found among its stars and stripes. Eary has a tendency to overdo things sometimes, be a little bit too loud and bright but this time around there was a good balance of focus and fun to be found. And the shark hoodies and slinky bombers were especially strong. Yes please.
Liam Hodges menswear Spring/Summer 2017 show, London, by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION
Liam Hodges found fame with a wander into history for a flamboyantly layered and costume-effect Royal College of Art collection three years ago. It was clear he had talent but he’s since toned things down, which has been a positive step forward in a world where sales are key and commercial isn’t a dirty word. That’s not to say this was commercial per se; there was a plethora of boliersuits, plus a great spliced and upturned shirt situation going on towards the end. Add to basket.
Coach menswear Spring/Summer 2017 show, London, by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION
Coach’s pre-occupation with Fifties Americana is still going strong. Don’t stop what you’re doing Stuart Vevers. There was a brilliant androgyny here that boys and girls alike will be clawing to get their hands on and let’s zoom in on those floral-adorned shorts and bags. Vevers continues to find the heritage brand’s sweet spot and make it a must-see show of the week, anchoring the schedule where, due to other big brands not showing, it might feel a little airy.
A photo posted by NOWFASHION (@nowfashion) on Jun 15, 2016 at 3:59am PDT
Fashion relies on a sense of “law and order” even though it might seem like that is being thrown out of the window of late with something of a show-gate occurring. Regardless, that was the theme of Christopher Kane’s menswear collection which took elements of Bay City Rollers plaid and transposed them onto cropped wide-leg trousers. He more explicitly embraced his namesake brand than we’d seen before with slogan sweatshirts and T-shirts and pin details that spelt out “KANE.” As for the pansy prints, an extension from his cruise collection, they might take time to win the boys over to wearing, but of course made my list.