This menswear season is all about the ladies. The trend had been slowly growing over the past few years, but now the tendency to weave womenswear pre-collections into menswear shows has exploded.
This shift has been an intriguing evolution of the fashion machine. The inclusion of women in the menswear presentations has helped to illustrate a clearer link between the two halves. It has also added a layer of complexity to the collections, particularly in what is shaping up to be an era of gender fluidity.
But there have also been times this season when the men’s better half got the better of them on the catwalk. And that was the case at the Givenchy show.
However, one could argue, the story that Riccardo Tisci wanted to tell with his women on Friday evening set himself apart from the rest. The see-through sexy lace dresses he sent down the runway were 11 haute couture creations. It was a cunning way for the designer to reintroduce his couture to the general public. And no one would dispute that the disappearance of Tisci’s Givenchy couture presentations during the official couture season has long been lamented.
So there they were – Naomi Campbell, Kendal Jenner, Joan Smalls, and Mariacarla Boscono – working the runway for all they were worth. Tough beauties who clearly didn’t suffer fools.
And let’s be honest, next to these ladies the guys just faded into the background. In the show, Tisci’s men were wearing the modern urban Givenchy uniform that the designer has crafted for the house over the past decade. There were the basketball style shorts worn with a faux skirt-like panel – this time in ribbed knitwear. And the striking religious images once again came plastered on everything from denim jumpsuits to semi-shear boxy tops. The designer even proffered up some stars and stripes printed on jeans worn by a pair of seriously ripped Magic Mike-like male models.
But even these beefcakes couldn’t distract from the real story of this Givenchy menswear show – those lovely ladies.