Say bye bye to the darkly romantic butterfly and sensual snakeskin printed ensembles of last season's Givenchy show. This time, designer Riccardo Tisci wants his women to be fierce, sexy and have just a hint of a dominatrix swirling about her wardrobe choices.
Nothing in this collection, set out mostly in black and white, was created for ease or comfort. These were pieces worn like armor, defensive, protective and powerful.
Leather pants were of the second skin variety (you might need pliers to pull up the zippers). Jackets and coat were crafted from stiff panels of fabric, held together by knitwear or alternatively cut in strips of leather linked by lace. Tops and dresses were of a laced up and corseted inclination.
Overall, there was a sort of Black Pearl pirate meets Goth girl at a rock concert feel to the show. This was a combination helped by shirts embellished with tattoo like images in the form of a cross and thigh-high, open-toe lace boots, that pushed this collection - when taken as a whole- into the realm of dress up.
There was a lot about these outfits that harkened back to pieces that Tisci created at the start of his career at Givenchy. But it seems a bit early for a designer, who just this summer threw an impressive 40th birthday party in Ibiza, to be revisiting his own chef-d'œuvre.