Gosha Rubchinskiy Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
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Gosha Rubchinskiy Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Paris

On the morning of the first day of the Paris menswear calendar, it was up to Gosha Rubchinskiy to have his first runway show ever. A good choice, because the young Moscow-based designer might have a long list of stockists more established designers would be jealous of, he is not the most talked about young talent yet.

Unjustified, though. With his Spring Summer 2015 'Arctica' show he proved he can put a really good show together.

For his latest collection he was inspired by the 80's and 90's skate look, resulting in thick shorts, sportive jackets, and (hooded) sweaters. And then there is always this Russian theme going on in Rubchinskiy's collections, referencing to the New generation of Pioneers going back to the USSR that, according to the designer, are very different culturally.

Of the more sophisticated part of the collection, the perforated faux-leather coats patched with cubes in different colors and materials on the back were the highlights of the show.

Only half of the casted models were professional, the other half unprofessional and selected by the designer himself. For example, he was following a popular guy on Instagram and he thought he had the perfect look for the show. Besides him, the designer casted some of his friends. The models were walking on shoes created in collaboration with Vans and Camper.

There were also short-sleeved and long-sleeved T-shirts with prints created by one of Rubchinskiy's friends, resembling a myth that aliens came to earth to provide the Siberian ethnic group with knowledge. The frozen heart in the print refers to the lack of sunlight in Siberia for a big part of the year.