“Showing in Paris is everything,” said a very emotional Gosia Baczynska after her first show in Paris, as Couture Federation president Didier Grumbach came to greet her. But it was not just a moment for her: those who had made it to the 6.30PM “death” slot of the final day of presentations were rewarded with a collection that felt fresh enough not to be considered a waste of after-season partying. And there was a gigantic accumulation of disco balls hanging in the stairwell of the Palais de Tokyo.
“Mystery, eternity, cosmos and disco,” were the building blocks of Baczynska’s collection. “Jackie O meets David Bowie, goes to the moon and Mars,” chimed in Janice Dickinson, much to the designer’s delight, after the former supermodel had slipped into a perfectly fitted shift straight off the runway. There was something vaguely Muglerian to the crosses that slashed through fabric, but it was only a passing idea, as the fresh ideas kept on coming, starting with an interestingly textured lace coated in latex squiggles that recurred.
Quite the refreshing riff on the defining arty trend of the season, as here there was hardly anything unfeminine, from shaping neoprene dresses in holographic shades of purple, to a sheer jumpsuit embroidered in giant houndstooth. A pearly dress was slit right up there, but kept demure by a cascade of strategically placed strips.
Baczynska offers a peek into her thrilling imagination, one we will be happy to encounter again next season. This is goodbye for now to the Fashion Month – well, until the ever-lasting noria of smaller fashion weeks, weekends and days kicks in.