Gucci Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Milan
There was a warm and fuzzy feel to the Gucci menswear show. Perhaps it was a direct result of the upcoming birth of Creative Director Frida Giannini’s first child? And the opening number that featured a baby blue coat can’t be just a coincidence.
But even if impending motherhood was not the reason. It was refreshing to see Giannini softening up her more familiar club going, party people style for something a bit more forgiving and inviting.
The designer used proportions to underline the concept of loosening up. Outerwear was cut in oversized shapes with strong, rounded shoulders and a more voluminous silhouette to say a black duffle coat or peacoat in pea green. The stroke-able mohair sweaters, suits in multicolored micro Prince of Wales check fabric with frayed threads and leather jackets polished with a glossy crackle coating, were all items that called out to be appreciated close up.
There were also some of Giannini’s comfort zone creations on the catwalk. The slim suits, and in particular, the cavalry and military inspired leather jackets were new takes on old favorites. And if the eveningwear had a whiff of the Tom Ford era at Gucci, the designer managed to bring her own twist to the smoking jacket. Going with shawl collar lapels and a beautiful bird motif jacquard that shimmered sliver on a black background.
In the end, the collection felt familiar and comfortable in all the right ways. Making it one the designer should feel proud of as she turns her attention to the arrival of her most important and personal creation.
- Jessica Michault