Gucci Menswear Fall Winter 2014 Milan
Designer Frida Giannini did something a bit atypical with her fall/winter 2014 Gucci show- she took a sober path. Instead of showing a lineup filled with iconic double G logos, classic silk Gucci prints, plush loafers or precious skin pieces cut with the modern rebellious musician in mind, she pulled back. Creating a collection that was composed and rather gentle in nature.
Inspired by the portraiture art of the artist Kris Knight, the most daring element of this show was Giannini chosen color palette. Deciding to cut her slim leather pants, teddy bear sweaters, blazers and biker jackets in dusty pastel shades was a rather audacious move for the designer. Particularly when you think that these blush pinks, baby blues and chalky peach shades are being used in a winter collection.
This streamlined and simplified show had a low frequency, 1960s, seafaring vibe to it. Which was most strongly represented in the fisherman caps and marine peacoats that Giannini made much use of in the show. But in the end it would be hard to pinpoint that most of the ensembles in this show belonged to the same collection, let alone one from the house of Gucci.
There is no question that having a commercial viable collection is a fundamental element of any collection. But those pieces belong in the showroom and not on the catwalk. A fashion show, at its core, is about projecting a brand’s message. In the case of this Gucci collection, that message got lost at sea.