Guy Laroche Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2015 Paris

The overpacked front row of the Guy Laroche show on Wednesday was a strong indication that the arrival of the American designer Adam Andrasick was big news on the Paris fashion scene. 

Andrasick, who has worked at Gucci and Proenza Schouler in the past, brought a sexy deconstructionist esthetic to the house. It was a combination that on the whole struggled to harmonize into appealing ensembles. Panels of fabric, knitwear and fur were layered into asymmetrical car wash fringe skirts or were used as bands of texture on fitted jackets. The designer's ribbed knit dresses coated in waves of silver at the sides or down the center were better. But the addition of a decorative belt that grew out of just the front of those knits looked fussy. 

There were also a number of pieces inspired by the Peter Greenaway film Pillow Book, which translated on the runway into bold black and white animal tattoo motifs interspersed with gold calligraphy symbols. But instead of harnessing the power of this imagery, the prints appeared muddled and unattractive. 

It was really only at the tail end of the show in a series of dévorée black velvet embellished with laths of silver fabric that Andrasick started to find a foothold. These were the ensembles that had something of an angular allure and point to a possible way forward for this designer.