The Guy Laroche signature style started with fluid tailoring, as a counter-reaction to Dior's new look back in the late 50s, this season's spring/summer 2013 collection was no different. Something has changed though. Yes, Marcel Marongiu - Guy Laroche's creative director - is faithful to his now famous easy-chic tailoring ever-since he took the reigns of the French Maison in 2007, but Marongiu added a sporty edge to it, something that would rather make you think of California Dreaming than Parisian Chic.
Boxy and sleek outfits kicked off the show and thereby emphasized the sporty attitude. Drop waists were applied on nearly each silhouette, providing some further nonchalance to the airy and slender outfits. “David Bowie was in my mind when I started to work on the collection”, states Marongiu who kept only the androgynous reference and left the rest of Bowie behind. The neutral color palette of white, nude and navy with hints of emerald green matched perfectly to high and mid-waisted pleated trousers that came along with spencer jackets turned into frock coats and men’s shirts that evolved into soft blouses.
Minimalistic cuts and graphic prints were also a big topic this season. In this context, Oscar Niemeyer's architectural style – the “tropical modernism” of the 60s and 70s – played a major part: “Some of the prints were a little clin-d'oeil to Brazil. All eyes are on this country at the moment, so Niemeyer felt like a logical reference”. This said, no ultra-severe minimalism was allowed: crêpes, silk jerseys and muslins emphasized the soft tailoring, while embossed cottons and poplins reinforced the rigidity of his cuts. Marongiu opted for some cheeky slits and cutouts in order to reveal some skin and play with feminine elegance – sexyness is expected ever-since he came up with his charming “Claire de Lune”-dress.
- Elisabeta Tudor