Guy Laroche Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 Paris
“Future-proof design,” a catchphrase that is rarely true to its word. At Guy Laroche this morning, Marcel Marongiu tried his hand at this, with good results. Science fiction doesn’t immediately evoke the luxe elegance of a brand such as Guy Laroche, but he pulled it off neatly. For sure, there will be elegant women in every time and space. More confident than ever in his role, he is pushing further and further into a streamlined and sporty formula that truly stands out.
It may not be easy to spot Fritz Lang’s dystopia or David Cronenberg’s new life form in Marongiu’s silhouettes, but the streamlined, sleek lines were everywhere, making the core refinement perfectly clear. High tech materials were the be-all, end-all of this collection, despite a fractured print, later echoed in the cracked shell effect of tiny leather patches sewn together, highlighting the handsomely boxy proportions of a coat. Fringes of optic fibers shimmered with every step on a group of dresses and were as straight as the models’ hair.
A few box-pleated cocktail dresses were perhaps a little too egg-like to appeal, but who’s counting when there are sleek overalls, the moving volumes of skirts, perfectly cut shirts – difficult to pick a favorite between the martial double button version, and the asymmetric one – and a perfect thick technical silk trench coat available?
In translating the most timeless and desirable elements of a woman’s wardrobe in high tech versions, the designer has not highlighted the novelty of their constituting materials, but rather their lasting appeal, regardless of their particulars.
The many variations around a theme that Marongiu offered on the runway certainly fitted the bill he’s set for himself: keep his customer coming, today and in the future.