On the path to renewal, Guy Laroche is shedding much of its erstwhile lady-like sensibilities at the nimble hands of Adam Andracsik. Already last season he showed a willingness to push the brand out there, between tattoo prints and deconstructed glam goth fare brushed in gold foil. This season he went further down that road for a tropical dystopia, all sliced denims and lacerated silks.
The clearest vision granted by this collection was one of a radical infusion of youth, sliced across dresses as asymmetric lines jagged along the silhouette. Leather dresses discreetly festooned with chains and curve-enhancing trousers were standouts, as were all the pieces that had their cursor firmly on the feminine. Knots and slips gave a modicum of adaptability, pulling a hemline up, revealing a sliver more of skin. Shoulders were bared as arms were covered.
Still, the cumulative effect of these many embellishments made some silhouettes busier than the woman Andrascik designs for, killing versatility.
The takeaway feeling was that Andracsik is still looking for his full footing between past and present. Perhaps the most important house code to note at Laroche was the founder's deep desire to provide relevant options to his clientele. As the punky girls of our times grow into women of the world, this new Laroche could find purchase, eventually.