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H&M Studio Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2015 Paris

For fall/winter 2015, H&M Studio created a lunar landscape at the Grand Palais, with moon-papered bleachers, panels, floors, and even patterned pillows. Several large foil-covered sculptures dotted the runway, like pseudo moon rocks for some school project. When the show began, in a flash of green and purple lights set to brusque we’re-about-to-blast-off noises, French model Caroline de Maigret strutted out in head-to-toe silver lamé: zippered jumpsuit, heeled boots, and motto helmet. She was like some sartorially-improved character from the Jetsons. But instead of inaugurating a legion of futurist attire, the looks thereafter felt all too…terrestrial. Quilted down coats and tight pants were worn with knee-high boots, followed by an array of copper-colored satin jackets and gold lurex tops. The collection went all over the map, bouncing between slouchy pants and blazers, front-slit shiny skirts, belted outerwear, beaded sweaters, scoop-necked ski suits, and billowy asymmetrical caftan dresses. There were sporadic instances of ‘90s-era layering a dress over trousers, but ultimately the ‘70s were the main epoch being celebrated: printed maxi dresses, flared pants, zigzag-patterned jumpsuits, auburn- and pumpkin-hued separates. Somehow the space station got its signal crossed with hippie vibes. Accessories included oversized weekend bags and cross-body satchels, as well as caps that were semi-equestrian and semi-Amelia Earhart. 

The last looks walked to David Bowie’s voice invoking Major Tom: the most iconic, if predictable space-themed choice imaginable. But a fun surprise was in store after the models did their final lap: the languishing foil-covered sculptures on the runway promptly spun inside out and transformed into stations for cocktails, nibbles, and a DJ booth cranking out Franz Ferdinand, NERD, Janelle Monae. Now that’s stellar design.