Haider Ackermann Menswear Spring Summer 2014 Paris
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It started with a hand written note from the designer on a crisp white piece of paper saying he would be "very pleased to welcome" me with a date, time and location. Signing off with a personalized message "with my affection, Haider Ackermann". There was no mention that this invitation was for his debut menswear show. But really was there any need?  The news that Ackermann was finally doing a line for men was already the talk of the Paris menswear shows.

The "personal touch" aspect of the invitation continued through to the show itself. No seat assignment, journalist and buyers mingled together, drinking champagne and placing fold up chairs willy nilly around the venue to try and find the best spot to enjoy the show.

But it was more of a  “Ackermann happening” then a classic runway show. With tattoo covered models, in deep jewel hued fabrics, mingling with the enthralled audience.

These haute hooligans, in "must have" silk bomber jackets, dhoti pants with a tattoo motif embroidery curling across the legs and fitted jackets held taunt to the torso with zip closer, were all comfortably familiar.
Pull apart the looks and any one of the pieces, from the polka dot vests and mauve colored tuxedo pants to the knee length burgundy coats and raw silk smoking jackets, would be a welcomed addition to a woman's wardrobe.

But as much as any man can count on the woman in their life steeling their Ackermann's out of their closets, this was not a feminine show. The designer was able to bring a certain richness and casual grace to menswear that it has been missing. This was a collection designed for a confident man who doesn't need to prove himself. a man that let's his deeds and his designer attire speak for themselves.  

- Jessica Michault
 

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