Haider Ackermann Menswear Spring Summer 2015 Paris
Once again Haider Ackermann went with a relaxed and approachable runway presentation of his menswear collection. Guests stood about sipping iced drinks while the designer casually sent out models to stroll down a make shift catwalk that meandered inside and out a bare bones Parisian residence.
In direct contradiction to its surroundings, the Ackermann garments were lush and ornate. A rich yet dusty, jewel-hued color palette of pieces layered together in a nonchalant way that must have taken hours to get just right. All the velvet varsity jackets, jacquard drop crotch pants, fitted vests over loose shirting, chinoiserie silk dressing gown coats, and long looping scarves closely echoed the personal style of the designer himself. Although, the easy inclusion of Saskia de Brauw and Liya Kebede into the mix of male models proved that the pieces had real cross over potential.
The introduction of shinny patent leather pants on the first exit injected a slight rock and roll energy into the mix and showed promise for a new direction for the designer. But it was left unfulfilled. As beautifully as his laissez-faire designs were, it would have been nice to see the designer push out of his wheelhouse just a bit more.