Haider Ackermann learned from the indulgent mistakes of his menswear’s mise-en-scène of last season. This time, instead of frustrating his audience with a hard to see, much less appreciate, presentation he went with a proper catwalk show. But Haider being Haider, he used the two wings of the Palais Galliera’s semicircular Ionic peristyle outside the museum as the romantic runway on which to unveil his collection of dashing designs.
On a beautiful melting pot line up of models, both male and female, Ackermann showed how all-embracing his esthetic can be. The swarthy male models, with their bushy thick eyebrows, had a sultry nonchalance about them. Their dandyish layered designs were given just a touch of danger in the embroidered words scrawled across the front of an indigo safari jacket or a gilded staple-like stitch work along the waistline of a pair of cropped slim pants.
The waist was the big story of the show. The designer made it an exaggerated focal point by creating almost obi-esque belts on low slung pants, layering broad knotted scarves with an assortment of leather or animal patterned belts to achieve the effect. The result was a slightly hourglass shape to the show’s slim silhouette.
The collection steered clear of any ethnical, or for that matter sexual, inclination. A man or a woman without difficulty could have just as easily worn any of the outfits Ackermann presented on Wednesday. However, this neutrality in design did not mean the collection was without any sartorial heat.
Each and every model looked sexy as hell.