Haider Ackermann's Urban Bohemia

Off-white on ivory, satin over velour: this collection deployed a harmony of associations, all revolving around rethought and pared-down suits. In his uniquely fluid aesthetic, Ackermann opened the show with a buttoned-up frock coat from under which peaked out leather trousers - a combination resulting, against all odds, in timeless femininity rather than biker chic. This was followed by the designer’s personal favourite, an oversized pinstriped suit, that later came in a body-hugging graphic version, worn on bare skin. The collection also incorporated menswear, kicking off with monochrome looks such as a pair of pearly rolled up trousers and a jumper effortlessly tied around the hips, or a cropped camel peacoat worn with matching trousers. Velour came in luminous midnight blue as a double-breasted overcoat or a loose cardigan. Bright lime silk was cut into buttonless blazers; and white streaks peaked out on the lapels of tenebrous jackets, creating a bold, geometrical contrast. It is no news that Haider Ackermann is one of the maestros of minimalism — but interestingly, he manages to convey different moods to his staple cuts. This season pointed at a form of urban bohemia — a desire for reconciliation between our hyperactive lives and a secret quest for inner peace?

A master at modernized glamour, Joseph Altuzarra focuses on the female figure rather than concepts. This collection notably highlighted the waist and neckline, starting with a series of crossover and shawl collars on belted blazers, or popped straight collars on cinched jackets. Mixing both 1940s rigorous silhouettes, a touch of garçonne chic and Audrey Hepburn-esque elegance, he went on experimenting with crushed velvet skirt suits, in navy or powdered pink; monochrome ensembles in mismatching knits – which came belted, as for most of the looks. Although sleek and minimalist for the great part, Altuzarra nevertheless introduced escapist touches, such as a pleated floral midi skirt — yes, for winter! — paired with a bodycon jumper with graphic cutouts; or bright feathers, outlining the waist, adorning slip-ons or in the shape of clutch. Last but not least, the show closed with a lamé floor-length dress — to awaken the disco-queen in all of us.

Tartan, in the shape of a bomber jacket and a deconstructed skirt, opened the show and set the tone: this season, symbols of British heritage and nobility were to be confronted with the country’s counter-cultures at Vivienne WestwoodThis involved quoting and distorting classical elements of 16th Century Tudor fashion — think low necklines, puffed sleeves and headpieces — by reworking them in jersey or nylon, customised by cords and straps. Pairing classicism with streetwear and functionality, the designer reminded us of the multiple functions a garment can play. Indigo and midnight blue made recurring appearances, such as on a bouffant corseted dress lifted by strings. This aligned with the show’s overall critique of the distinction between high and low. Indeed, the tone simultaneously hinted at sumptuary laws (which once made it illegal for the shade to be worn by anyone but royalty), as well as blue-collar workers. Graffiti — a trend this season it appears — popped up on t-shirt dresses, a symbol of rebellion echoing Vivienne’s long-standing history of activism. Genderplay was also addressed, as a male model appeared in an effortlessly draped fuchsia dress, paired with rubber-meets-combat boots. From gender to social class and politics, the show explored the plethora of meaning each garment, cut, the tone can convey.

Black futuristic suits with ruffled white seams opened the show at Rokh — so as to celebrate, one could suggest, the craftsmanship and the process behind the garment. This dystopian note was carried out on a body-hugging military coat embellished with metallic chains and topped with minuscule triangular sunglasses - a trend that seems to last, nuanced, however, by distant references, such as a wrap-around belt reminiscent of the ones found on kimonos.Nevertheless, the collection took a different path as it introduced a tunic somewhere between an empire dress and a dirndl on the runway, to be followed by plenty more feminine classics. This included a loose floral jumpsuit, a speckled high-collared floor-length dress, or a skirt in tears of tulle ruffles, to name but a few. This hybridity between two seemingly opposite wardrobes was synthesized by a timeless trench-coat, deconstructed and rebuilt with pleated panels of blossomy silk — could it be to suggest an inherent duality inherent in all women?

Legs and a blazer opened the Kwaidan Editions show. The clear-cut contrast, between a sexualized female attribute and classic menswear, was carried through with, yes, more legs — but the following time topped with a silver lamé overcoat. Yet, the latter rather than the former proved to be a point of focus in the collection: trench-coats, military coats, raincoats, peacoats, some oversized, others quilted, figure-hugging and buttoned-up, poured out onto the runway – giving centre stage to outerwear as a central part of an outfit. Kwaidan Editions went on to unveil a series of essentials for a daily wardrobe: cowl neck tops, baggy jeans, nineties-style; shirtdresses were given a makeover by playing with sheen and bold colours. Designed for a busy, modern woman and intended to be worn rather than gazed at, the clothes oozed a sense of uplifted realism.

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
A Verdict on Digital Fashion Week
By Fabio Ciquera
In the past two weeks, we have witnessed an array of different and varied virtual presentations,...
By Fabio Ciquera
In the past two weeks, we have witnessed an array of different and varied virtual presentations, online happenings and symposia. One cannot accuse luxury houses to lack inventiveness, and there is a genuine appreciation for the quick turnaround in moving everything online. From Loewe to Prada and...
In the past two weeks, we have witnessed an array of different and varied virtual presentations, online happenings and symposia. One cannot accuse luxury houses to lack inventiveness, and there is a genuine appreciation for the quick turnaround in moving everything online. From Loewe to Prada and Dior, among the many names, the creative solutions have been exciting to watch. This new reality...
Revival LDN: The Upcycled Fashion Brand Aiming At Helping the Environment
By Alice Ierace
For years now, many fashion brands have added sustainability to their vocabulary and, through...
By Alice Ierace
For years now, many fashion brands have added sustainability to their vocabulary and, through research and proposals, have tried to lessen the fashion industry’s huge impact on the environment. However, despite the efforts, many are still the fast-fashion brands ignoring the issue. The problem is...
For years now, many fashion brands have added sustainability to their vocabulary and, through research and proposals, have tried to lessen the fashion industry’s huge impact on the environment. However, despite the efforts, many are still the fast-fashion brands ignoring the issue. The problem is that, no matter how sustainable they deem they are, we are still living in a fast-paced environment...
Reflections on Life post Lockdown at MFW
By Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai
Etro Kicking off day two of Milan Fashion Week was ETRO presenting its Men’s Spring Summer 2021...
By Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai
By Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai
Etro Kicking off day two of Milan Fashion Week was ETRO presenting its Men’s Spring Summer 2021 and Women’s Resort 2021 collections with an informal gathering at Milan’s iconic Four Seasons Hotel. “We are finally back together, in the garden of this iconic hotel, in the heart of Milan’s...
Etro Kicking off day two of Milan Fashion Week was ETRO presenting its Men’s Spring Summer 2021 and Women’s Resort 2021 collections with an informal gathering at Milan’s iconic Four Seasons Hotel. “We are finally back together, in the garden of this iconic hotel, in the heart of Milan’s Montenapoleone district. We want to highlight that we are a family, that Etro is a family living in a world...
White Mountaineering Brings Back BLK Line
By Elisa Carassai
Showcasing at Paris Fashion Week, ’s White Mountaineering is the creative baby of Japanese...
By Elisa Carassai
Showcasing at Paris Fashion Week, ’s White Mountaineering is the creative baby of Japanese designer Yosuke Aizawa. This season, the designer not only presented an exclusive film directed by Daito Manabe from the Rhizomatiks, but he also decided to relaunch his original BLK line. Launched in 2009,...
Showcasing at Paris Fashion Week, ’s White Mountaineering is the creative baby of Japanese designer Yosuke Aizawa. This season, the designer not only presented an exclusive film directed by Daito Manabe from the Rhizomatiks, but he also decided to relaunch his original BLK line. Launched in 2009, White Mountaineering’s BLK Line proposed a new feel to outdoor wear with high-spec textiles and...
Digital Meets Local at Sunnei
By Elisa Carassai
Before lockdown started, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo...
By Elisa Carassai
By Elisa Carassai
Before lockdown started, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo were supposed to move in their newly-bought building, Casa Sunnei. Not being able to move in, and stuck quarantining home, the duo started reflecting on what they could do to move forward, at a slower...
Before lockdown started, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo were supposed to move in their newly-bought building, Casa Sunnei. Not being able to move in, and stuck quarantining home, the duo started reflecting on what they could do to move forward, at a slower pace.  “During the lockdown, I realized we were moving at a pace that was too fast - we were...
A Play of Poetics at MFW
By Elisa Carassai
MSGM’s Midsummer Night’s Dream Kicking off the first day of Milan’s Digital Fashion Week was...
By Elisa Carassai
By Elisa Carassai
MSGM’s Midsummer Night’s Dream Kicking off the first day of Milan’s Digital Fashion Week was Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM, with a film celebrating the new Milanese generation of young creatives, as well as the joy of life post-lockdown. Inspired by writer Isabella Santacroce’s book Fluo: Storie di...
MSGM’s Midsummer Night’s Dream Kicking off the first day of Milan’s Digital Fashion Week was Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM, with a film celebrating the new Milanese generation of young creatives, as well as the joy of life post-lockdown. Inspired by writer Isabella Santacroce’s book Fluo: Storie di Giovani a Riccione (“Fluo: Stories of Young People in Riccione”) – who also happens to be from...
Purity and Tradition Intertwine at MFW
By Alice Ierace
Prada and The Show That Never HappenedFew people do fashion quite like Miuccia Prada. After the...
By Alice Ierace
Prada and The Show That Never HappenedFew people do fashion quite like Miuccia Prada. After the announcement back in February stating that Raf Simons would become the brand’s new co-creative director, today we were lucky enough to witness Miuccia’s last solo collection – her final bow after three...
Prada and The Show That Never HappenedFew people do fashion quite like Miuccia Prada. After the announcement back in February stating that Raf Simons would become the brand’s new co-creative director, today we were lucky enough to witness Miuccia’s last solo collection – her final bow after three decades of unforgettable shows.Of course, a simple presentation wasn’t in the plan – it needed that...
Auralee’s Imaginary Journey Through Time
By Alice Ierace
Firstly launched in Tokyo, designer Ryota Iwai decided to present Auralee’s latest Spring/Summer...
By Alice Ierace
Firstly launched in Tokyo, designer Ryota Iwai decided to present Auralee’s latest Spring/Summer 21 collection during digital Paris Fashion Week as one of the major independent fashion brands.As a brand, Auralee is renowned for its magnificent clean silhouettes, impeccable quality and minimal...
Firstly launched in Tokyo, designer Ryota Iwai decided to present Auralee’s latest Spring/Summer 21 collection during digital Paris Fashion Week as one of the major independent fashion brands.As a brand, Auralee is renowned for its magnificent clean silhouettes, impeccable quality and minimal styling. Its aim? A full exploration into the development of their own fabrics. By taking inspiration...