Henrik Vibskov Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
Danish designer Henrik Vibskov is known as one of the most experimental names on the Parisian menswear calendar. He's perhaps even the most laid-back one as well – or at least it is the impression that he gave, when he sipped on a beer backstage after his show.
Reputed for his numerous talents – Vibskov is also a drummer, an installation artist, an object designer, and last but not least a book author – he is often expected to fuse all his different métiers into one, by proposing a runway experience that appealed to a multitude of senses. In this context, the Vibskov fans will kindly remember recent spectacular installations, such as the last autumn-winter season, where he showcased a massive drum machinery at the center of his “Shrink Wrap Spectacular” runway, that interacted with the models.
This time, Henrik Vibskov didn't set the bar that high with his runway scenario – long black flamingo heads hanging from the ceiling – but opted for an intriguing story line, next to his impeccably cut silhouettes. His so-called “Stiff Neck Chamber” collection and installation was just as multifaceted as the work itself: "Stiff necks are everywhere. In the bible, there are people called stiff necks. In the old days, construction workers who were carrying up the bricks were called stiff necks as well. Even a Viagra product is called this way," stated the designer.
Clothing wise, Vibskov reinterpreted motives and prints that he kept for two seasons now: dots, space dyed knits and distorted prints were predominant, while pink flamingo motives adorned a suit now and then. Especially worth-watching were the oversized, padded balmacaan coats with patched pockets, distinctive pipings and zipped sleeves, in taupe with coral-colored lining or in anthracite and light grey. For the accessories, Vibskov also had some inventive suggestions: helmet-like hats, adorned with wooden constructions finished off the silhouettes perfectly, while wool embroidered derby-shoes will certainly sell in stores.
Other than his new collection, the designer has further exciting news, such as his first solo show in Paris, “Neck Plus Ultra” at La Galerie des Galeries, that kicks off on February 27th. An exhibition inspired by his "stiff neck" flamingos, consisting of a similar installation with birds hanging from the ceiling and a hypnotic walk through spinning tunnels. Just in time for the start of the upcoming womenswear season.
- Elisabeta Tudor