Henrik Vibskov Menswear Spring Summer 2014 Paris
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Talented multitasker and designer Henrik Vibskov seems to never lack in ingenious, somehow bizarre, but always joyful set design ideas that completely merge with his fashion design. His show scenery has become such an important part of his work that it is now deeply rooted in his brand’s DNA – a Henrik Vibskov show without a stirring and singular art installation is not a Vibskov show anymore.

But this time, his mise-en-scène was unfortunately not that thrilling. Usually, the models interacted with their surroundings, giving Vibskov's silhouettes a whole new creative dimension, but in today's show there was no direct synergy between his art installation and his clothes as the Danish designer opted for a “tableau vivant” made out of a group of models standing in line rather than his usual conceptual runway shows.

The so-called “The Bathtube Observer” installation – a giant diamond-print bathtub with yellow and orange hair balls dispatched all over – contained more or less 20 male models that were dressed in signature style Vibskov outfits: an easy-going, functional wear with unique eye-popping patterns and accessories. Vibskov kept the dots and distorted moiré prints from his previous seasons and added colorful variations of herringbone patterns and prints. He also introduced chunky cubistic motives on knitwears, blousons and pants, that came with a cutely naïve and ethical-flavored touch. The daring combinations of slender men's dresses worn over loose-fit pajama-pants, or shorts worn over pants and cropped tops over shirts gave more structure to the silhouettes and surely looked ravishing on the models. But somehow the usual “Vibskov-magic” triggered by the fusion of the designer's collection with his art was missing.

- Elisabeta Tudor
 

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