Hermès' Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski questioned the looks of the woman of the future. What will be new in her wardrobe, and which elements will she keep from the past? Well, she will definitely keep the maison's distinguished and subtle luxurious sophistication and sport-infused tailoring, and she will add some bolder patterns and more masculine cuts to it. [CONTINUE READING...]
The large room split into long white corridors immediately gave the impression of order. A simple catwalk exalted the bold colors chosen by Nadege Vanhee-Cibulski for Hermès. To start there was order, which give way to an interest in uniformity. Is this the same maison known for its artisanal techniques?
Then came all the work, from saddlery trims to high waists. Trousers had a mannish flair, balancing out an orchestrated mix of masculine and feminine elements. The mood remained very chic, exemplified by all the prints with an invisibly elegant feel, folded within the pleats of a swishing skirt for example. There were kinetic references to the Cavalcadour movement, founded by Henri d’Origny or artworks by the artist and illustrator Nigel Peake, who has already collaborated with the house on their menswear collection. There were decorous lucky charm jewels hanging from wrists and waists, adding a touch of bling to panelled dresses or asymmetrical edges completed with vest shaped top panels. Moving from incredibly luxurious leather to embroidery ajourate on soft shirts. A cotton drill denim jacket or coat and flat leather fringing like a bassorilievo. Moving through to the bags, there's the new Cinetic, a rigid vanity case with a metal closure as well as mini bags, which were carried in pairs. All had metal chain straps to add a bold touch to the total look.
by Stefano Roncato - MFFashion