Hervé Léger by Max Azria Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2015 New York

The woman at Herve Leger was about a sort of power this season. Power dressing seems an inaccurate term, conjuring thoughts of tailored suits and monochromatic looks. This definitely wasn't that. "You can not wear Herve Leger unless you're very confident in yourself," said Lubov Azria backstage at the show in a bandage dress and Mongolian fur from the collection herself. It was definitely that: confidence, not power.

Azria pointed to the facades of a cathedral in Barcelona as inspiration for this collection breaking out the story into three parts. Part one for Azria was about birth as exemplified by cleaner lines and embroidery featuring blooming flowers and angels on jacquards. The second: passion. Cue heavier embroidery in an edgier, more gothic style. Dresses here with their detailing seemed some of the strongest of the bunch.  Here though, things did seem to veer a tad towards Balmain territory, a caped form-fitting dress in black smacking of the brand. The art nouveau inspired finale comprised the third facade representing glory. 

The detailing of the collection here seemed a sticking point. A reminder of Balmain, maybe, but let us not forget that Herve Leger proper was a couturier; the house, a French brand subsequently bought by an American company. And maybe on the brand’s 30 year anniversary, it's time to play that up.