“Nowadays, you have to fight for everything you want,” Kuho Jung mused at the end of his Hexa by Kuho fall-winter 2013 catwalk show. “You are the new resistance of this time.”
The backdrop of the run down store-rooms of 37 rue de Turenne, a space that once housed famous French photographic archives, provided the backdrop for the impeccable collection of the Korean designer, which had the likes of Garance Doré and Jessica Stam filming and shooting on Samsung's brand new Galaxy 2 phone, provided by the electronics powerhouse. Strange bedfellows? Not so quite. In Korea, Samsung is very actively involved in fostering the development of its country's upcoming designers through the Samsung Fashion Design Fund, whose alumni also include menswear designer Juun.J.
You might want to handle this woman with care, if the silicone silhouette of a grenade bonded onto a bright yellow sweater is any indication. A shimmery “quilting” of lozenges reveals itself on closer inspection to be tightly packed sequins worked in volume. A print of missile diagrams breaks the formality of a white silk shirt, a pair of leggings becomes a tonal missile silo.
And who wants to clump around in the urban battlefield with unwieldy block wedges. Jung’s shoe of the season featured a cut at the ball of the foot to allow greater freedom, reminiscent of a tank track.
Leather patches across a coat remind of military uniforms. Nothing too literal came to break the impression of crisp shapes made for effortless dressing.
An impression of urban sophistication comes off these tailored flowing silhouettes which are stopped at the brink of austerity by a warming cream tone instead of white and flashes of yellow, raspberry red looks. The drop-crotch pants might have been the least likable element in this, and they too will no doubt have their fans. Hexa by Kuho’s resistance is dangerously appealing.
- Lily Templeton