Military yet candid, a leather cape layered over a cropped button-up dress, all in soft pink, led the way at Giambattista Valli. The experimentation with a Sixties Yeye Girl silhouette carried on in the shape of a baby-doll chiffon number with a Mao collar, or in a series of minidresses-meet-coat. Think France Gall at her peak. Which was then given a gentle punk twist: Like East and West London reunited, a frayed lace over-the-knee skirt was accessorised with grandma’s pearls, as well as with chunky military boots. Contrasting with the epoch, rigorous 1940s-shapes defined a strict black trench coat or a feathered skirt suit. Mottled red tweed suits followed the sleek, gently retro line of the show. As did the part flapper-girl, part Victorian England ruffled tulle bustier dresses, or the Golden Age Hollywood moiré evening gowns A sheer, floral and embroidered dress came with the strategical place, graphic feathered panels. This best highlighted Giambattista Valli’s approach, mixing opacity and transparency, youthful and military codes, micro vs mini - leading the way to a contemporary and non-sentimental look at history’s classics.
Graphic prints on twisted tailoring best sums up Akris’ collection today. It kicked off with a silk Art Deco-inspired ensemble and a matching military beret, followed by layered and contrasting houndstooth skirt suits. Modernist patterns came flowing in, on a long, streamlined puffer jacket or a woollen trench coat - a rigour that was softened by a lace shirt dress with an elongated Lavallière bow. All-over impressions on round-coloured blouses and loose pants seemed to point out Akris’ uniform of the season. This, and suits, plenty of them: a disco-themed one in fully crystal embroidered silk, another in perforated wool; or yet again in head-to-toe leather – crimson and high waisted for a 70s wink, or blue and nautical with a double-breasted blouson. Last but not least, came a version in an hourglass cut checkered pink, a nod at the Fifties as much as power wear. Playing with straight lines, androgynous classics and more sensuous layers of silk and chiffon, Akris provided a subtle game of contrasts through and through.