House of Holland Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2015 London

All little girls have to grow up in the end;  even House of Holland girls - both the ones on the designer's runway, and the celebrity muses whooping their applause on the front row. And Henry Holland seemed to be in the mood to adjust his bouncy aesthetic this season, swapping the West End for a dank industrial space off the Marylebone Road, and a hazard tape-edged catwalk backed by neon-lit scaffolding.

Unexpectedly, when the first look hit the catwalk, the catwalk itself jerked to life, turning into a conveyor belt that zoomed Holland's looks around the long loop of the show space. It was a clever move; legs spread wide, feet planted on the travelator in clumpy black boots, models wore a tough, purposeful air, echoing the statement of intent set out in the brief show notes - uptown woman meets trustafarian urchin.

There were plenty of familiar house signatures in the mix - bold tartan and houndstooth prints, garbled gingham patchwork, rainbow-coloured Muppet furs and darned, vividly striped separates amongst them - but they all came with a new sense of boldly-stated opulence. That was particularly evident in the closing looks, where the colour palette deepened into lush berry shades, and the silhouettes lengthened to a slinky, confident swagger. The message was clear; the anarchic London attitude is still there, but the House of Holland woman definitely isn't a little girl any more.