How is Italy’s Independent Scene Reacting to Covid?

While Milan Fashion Week may be known for its calendar surrounded by a smattering of fashion behemoths such as Prada, Armani and Gucci, slowly but surely, a series of young talents have emerged during the years, favoured by industry insiders and celebrities alike. 

 

Still, given the current situation, how will this crisis impact their businesses? Will we lose a generation of promising new voices or will these creatives emerge stronger than ever before?

 

On an economic level - most designers agree this crisis will have an enormous impact on them, a crisis that has already started to take a toll and whose signs are already visible. 

 

“An emerging brand like ours has suffered and is suffering much more than a big brand for a thousand reasons, as not doing the pre-collections, for example, we certainly could not lean on those gains,” stated Marco Rambaldi. 

 

Although, financially speaking, many designers are suffering - some are staying hopeful, finding the potential positive aspects of this crisis. 

 

Gabriele Colangelo, for example, is focusing on the beneficial aspects of slowing down: “My attention, in these days of necessary suspension from everyday life to which we are accustomed, dwells even more - because it is a consideration on which I have long reflected - on time. I realise how in general the days have a frenetic, rapid development and how work is subjected to pressing rhythms without pause for elaboration.” The designer is now finding the time to dedicate himself to the study of details, new materials and craftsmanship. 

 

Luca Magliano instead, is hoping his brand will come out of this crisis big and strong enough to make brave choices such as starting to made-to-measure or bespoke business on the side. Others, like Marco Rambaldi and Arthur Arbesser, are coming to the realisation that this is an opportunity to make their collections even more sustainable. 

 

“I have decided to make future collections more edited, even smaller and even more personal. And for the next collection, we will use leftover fabrics from past seasons. My story will always be about a niche product and speak to a selected clientele and that is something I cherish and don't want to change,” said Arbesser. 

 

Some others instead are finding creative solutions to solve their problems, inspired by their Chinese counterparts who presented their collections online at Shanghai Fashion Week reaching more than 2.5million viewers. 

 

“We are developing strategies to define new timings and new formats for the next presentations such as digital platforms, virtual fashion weeks, interactive shows… At the moment, everything in the operational-production system has stopped but creativity, design and connection continue. If everything can start again soon, there will be time to create the collections,” explained Vivetta. “Companies are developing new ways of presentation and we set ourselves the goal of presenting the SS21 collection on the web at the beginning of July. Of course, there will be many limits and the experience and beauty of touching and feeling clothes would be lost, but we will do our best to have efficient results anyway.” 

 

Like Vivetta, the duo behind Act N1 made up of Luca Lin and Galib Gassanoff has also been working on the digitalisation of experiences, which they believe will reduce costs and attract more customers abroad. However, although this could be an alternative solution to the upcoming problems, will this mean it will also change the way we shop? 

 

While some designers such as Arthur Arbesser, Act N1 and Gabriele Colangelo believe it will, impacting also the way we travel, consume and more, others, like Luca Magliano, disagree: “If retail will change after this it will be because people’s perception of what is luxury or cool will change: in that case, creativity and retail will have to portray those new feelings.”

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Gary Green’s Black And White Photographs Delve into NYC’s Punk and Post-Punk Scene
By Sasha Regazzoni
It was the summer of 1976 when American photographer Gary Green moved from the humdrum suburbs of...
By Sasha Regazzoni
It was the summer of 1976 when American photographer Gary Green moved from the humdrum suburbs of Long Island to a two-bedroom apartment in Lower Manhattan, the epicentre of the up and coming anarchistic wave of music known as ‘punk’, to work as a photographer assistant. Coincidentally it was...
It was the summer of 1976 when American photographer Gary Green moved from the humdrum suburbs of Long Island to a two-bedroom apartment in Lower Manhattan, the epicentre of the up and coming anarchistic wave of music known as ‘punk’, to work as a photographer assistant. Coincidentally it was also the year the Ramones released their first album and punk idols Patti Smith, Television and Richard...
Issey Miyake Releases Exclusive Documentary
By Alice Ierace
Issey Miyake released an unpublished docu-film that shows the birth and evolution of the...
By Alice Ierace
Issey Miyake released an unpublished docu-film that shows the birth and evolution of the collection Homme Plissé Issey Miyake and shares a message of freedom, movement and comfort as new codes for men's clothing.Opening with a scene from Flying Bodies, a video that captures the 2013 performance...
Issey Miyake released an unpublished docu-film that shows the birth and evolution of the collection Homme Plissé Issey Miyake and shares a message of freedom, movement and comfort as new codes for men's clothing.Opening with a scene from Flying Bodies, a video that captures the 2013 performance of the Aomori University Men's Rhythmic Gymnastics Team which marks the debut of the collection, the...
OP-Ed: Is Voice Technology the Future of Retail?
By Elisa Carassai
Will the voice-operated assistant change the way we...
By Elisa Carassai
Will the voice-operated assistant change the way we shop?   The first time I came across Amazon’s Alexa, I was amazed by the fact that a voice-operated assistant could work so well. Having Siri on my iPhone, I had never really made use of the...
Will the voice-operated assistant change the way we shop?   The first time I came across Amazon’s Alexa, I was amazed by the fact that a voice-operated assistant could work so well. Having Siri on my iPhone, I had never really made use of the voice-operated system integrated inside my phone, as it would often fail to correctly execute my...
Cult Scandi Brand Cecilie Bahnsen Debuts Shoe Collection With Charles Keith
By Elisa Carassai
Joining forces this week are designers Charles & Keith and Cecile Bahnsen, who collaborated on an...
By Elisa Carassai
Joining forces this week are designers Charles & Keith and Cecile Bahnsen, who collaborated on an exciting shoe line inspired by traditional school-wear. The collection features some of the most classic Charles & Keith shapes and silhouettes which are reinterpreted by Bahnsen and finished with...
Joining forces this week are designers Charles & Keith and Cecile Bahnsen, who collaborated on an exciting shoe line inspired by traditional school-wear. The collection features some of the most classic Charles & Keith shapes and silhouettes which are reinterpreted by Bahnsen and finished with her signature brooch. Four various styles are featured including three Mary Jane designs and a...
Five CBD Brands That Are Doing it Right
By Ludovica Parisi
CBD is being marketed everywhere. From oils and topicals to edibles, there are now infinite ways...
By Ludovica Parisi
CBD is being marketed everywhere. From oils and topicals to edibles, there are now infinite ways to introduce cannabidiols in your lifestyle. However, as buyers get overwhelmed by the number of products being launched every week, companies have to work harder to stand out from the competition....
CBD is being marketed everywhere. From oils and topicals to edibles, there are now infinite ways to introduce cannabidiols in your lifestyle. However, as buyers get overwhelmed by the number of products being launched every week, companies have to work harder to stand out from the competition. So, what is the strategic approach to ensure people’s trust in a product? The answer lies in the...
Cuoio di Toscana Launches Campaign Against Domestic Violence
By Alice Ierace
Italian sole-leather brand Cuoio di Toscana, alongside many companies and institutions of fashion...
By Alice Ierace
Italian sole-leather brand Cuoio di Toscana, alongside many companies and institutions of fashion and luxury leather goods, shared their the commitment to defend women. “Violence against women does not go into quarantine: at the expense of the current moment of emergency, the numbers affecting...
Italian sole-leather brand Cuoio di Toscana, alongside many companies and institutions of fashion and luxury leather goods, shared their the commitment to defend women. “Violence against women does not go into quarantine: at the expense of the current moment of emergency, the numbers affecting this social injury show no sign of diminishing and, if we consider the case of domestic violence in...
Burberry Reports Significant Revenue Loss
By Rebecca Hitchon
Luxury fashion house Burberry has released its preliminary results for the past financial year...
By Rebecca Hitchon
Luxury fashion house Burberry has released its preliminary results for the past financial year ending 28th March, revealing the impact of COVID-19 on the business.Although the report discusses positive responses to its SS20 and AW20 collections and sales higher than expected earlier in the...
Luxury fashion house Burberry has released its preliminary results for the past financial year ending 28th March, revealing the impact of COVID-19 on the business.Although the report discusses positive responses to its SS20 and AW20 collections and sales higher than expected earlier in the year, the outbreak of COVID-19 in late January negatively affected the financial year. Store closures,...
Meryll Rogge’s Last Days of Disco
By Elisa Carassai
New York has always been a source of inspiration for...
By Elisa Carassai
New York has always been a source of inspiration for creatives. From writers, to artists, poets and designers, the city that never sleeps always seems to provide the right canvas for the creation of the most exciting ventures.   One of these...
New York has always been a source of inspiration for creatives. From writers, to artists, poets and designers, the city that never sleeps always seems to provide the right canvas for the creation of the most exciting ventures.   One of these creatives is 35-year-old Meryll Rogge. A former student of Walter Van Beirendock at Antwerp’s Academy...