Over the past two years, the student scene at fashion week has been gaining momentum. Where once London Fashion Week was a stomping ground only for Central Saint Martins MA students to take a real-life step into the industry, now they’ve got Westminster University hot on their tail.
San Kim's collection at the University of Westminster MA Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in London. Photos by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.
At the LFW womenswear shows, the latter London university shows the collections of its BA students; and at menswear this week, it showed off the work of its MA collections. Which were strong and individual – and, coincidentally enough, did have something in common with the CSM BA show we saw a couple of weeks back. Westminster student San Kim, inspired by the sculptor Paul McCarthy, presented inflated shapes in bold colours; we had seen a different exploration of this by CSM’s Fredrik Tjaerandsen (recall the models in walking bubbles which then spun – somehow – into dresses).
Hatiie Crowther's collection at the University of Westminster MA Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in London. Photos by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.
As had been an impressive year from CSM, so too was what Westminster had to offer. Hattie Crowther combined stockings with tailoring for a collection of supposedly distorted silhouettes – I say “supposedly” because it looked really cool, harking back to the glory days of Margiela when Martin was (rumoured) still there.
Robyn Lynch's collection at the Fashion East Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in London. Photos by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.
Each collection had a different point of view, as has come to be the expectation from Westminster these days – the edit is always really, really good. So much so that Robyn Lynch, one of last year’s graduates, has now found herself on the Fashion East roster for a second time. She showed a great collection this season – cohesive, wearable, witty, and with an excellent use of colour: beige and mint green, baby blue. She riffed off the idea of seaside holiday camps and hand-me-down dressing, the result of which was a full and convincing Robyn Lynch world and brand, which is no bad position to be in a mere two collections in.