Hussein Chalayan Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 Paris
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One of the biggest trends this season has been this concept of overlay. One house after another has draped their creations in a voile of semi sheer fabric. Another major focus has been on creating clothing cut with a ridged – stand away from the body- shape. Leave it to Hussein Chalayan to come up with his own unique, and beautiful take on how to bringing these two tendencies together. Creating a collection that had a stark and sporty grace.

Models, their hair scrapped back against their scalps or coved in floppy hats with colorful plastic inserts on the brim, came out wearing oversized starched shirts and flat panel-like fronted jackets.  Chalayan also built volume into his show via pleated peplums on a green day glow top, padded shoulders on sports jersey-esque pieces, and cropped culotte pants.

But it was when Chalayan got to his gowns, that the blending of volume and voile transformed this collection into wearable pieces of artwork. The poetic simplicity of the concept was a large part of its appeal. First, the designer crafted a number of colorful column dresses. Next, he superimposed a long rectangular strip of fabric on top of the dress, merely cutting a hole for the head of the models to slip though. Then, Chalayan left the semitransparent fabric loose to float about the body. The underlying dress could still be seen but in some cases the designer went as far as doubling the layers of fabric on the edges to create the allusion of a new shape for the dress.

It was an ingenious idea and proved that Chalayan is a multifaceted designer with a rich, and beautiful imagination.  

 

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