Streetwear meets Japanese Heritage at Facetasm Show
Founded in 2007 by Japanese designer Hiromichi Ochiai, Facetasm embraces Tokyo’s essence through a variety of laid-back styles from the sportswear vibe. His ability to play with perspectives categorises him as one of the most eclectic menswear and womenswear designers of the time. From unisex shapes to extravagant combinations of colours and fabrics, Ochiai’s approach is always fresh, gender-fluid – aimed at reflecting a cool, young crowd who loves to experiment with fashion.
His collections are characterised by relaxed fits and cuttings, reinforced by bold details such as XL pockets and military prints. The utilitarian style that results in easy-to-wear streetwear pieces, is also maintained in Facetasm Men’s and Women’s Spring / Summer 2021, showcased through a short video entitled ‘More Memories’.
If his Spring 2019 collection evoked a messy atmosphere, populated by clashing patterns and numerous layers, this year’s concept is an evolution of his avant-garde vision. Deconstructed denim jackets and asymmetrical trench coats paired with chunky colour-block sneakers alternate with loungewear coordinates in vivid nuances. Raw patches, puffed floaty sleeves and fringe applications add volume to the silhouettes, demonstrating Ochiai’s ability to experiment with proportions. The overwhelming layering is reinforced with checked prints, another recurrent element in the collection.
The garments’ colours recall the tones of the surrounding, consisting in a pavemented, open-air pool where models are seen wandering around and contemplating the vastity of the outdoor setting – all captured under the direction of Taichi Kimura. The quietness of the environment is replaced with images of vertiginous skyscrapers, which seem to match Facetasm collection aesthetics. Overall, the disharmony of styles and overlapping of colours truthfully represent Facetasm’s identity, opening the door of a Tokyo that is not afraid to push fashion boundaries and stand out from its competitors.
Playing with Asymmetries at Kolor SS21
Japanese brand Kolor, established in 2014 by Junichi Abe, is another one on the list of fashion-forward designers that are currently riding the wave of success. Recognised for its edginess characterised by the original combination of colours and materials, Kolor is undoubtedly innovative, at times futuristic. Having gained a great reputation for collaborating with Adidas on seasonal capsule collections, the Asian brand voluntarily exploits its designs to celebrate uniqueness.
For his Spring / Summer 2021, Abe revisits his previous Autumn Winter
2011-12 Collection by working on deconstructed silhouettes composed of
different types of clothes, as well as maximising volumes through layering. In
the video presentation directed by Yusuke Tanaka, models are seen flipping on
rotation in the middle of what seems to be an old stage. Abe’s unconventional
creativity is showcased throughout a series of disjointed garments, almost
reminiscing trekking gear. From maxi bows embroidery to tulle applications, the
collection combines together contemporary streetwear with bohemian style.
Nevertheless, his womenswear flared pants inspired to the 90s present a new
style’s technique never experimented before.
Although there are some accents of tailoring like pinstriped blazers and slim-cut trousers, Kolor’s DNA remains identifiable through some streetwear elements, such as logo t-shirts, utility jackets and bulky sneakers. Last but not least, the colour palette is warm, with recurrent accents of red, brown, beige and khaki.
With a collection that conveys energy and determination, Junichi Abe strikes again Paris Fashion Week with his inimitable touch of old-time elegance, dramatically toned down by his ‘ready-to-wear’ vision.
Henrik Vibskov: Between Fire and Heat
In a short 9-minute video, Vibskov invites us to discover his world and the process behind his work: from a concept to the creative process, a dig into materials, sustainability and stories. For the past 18 years, after graduating from Central Saint Martin, Vibskov created and showcased over 40 seasons in Paris and, this year, his latest SS 21 collection has a remarkable concept: fire.
“Ironically enough,” Vibskov says in the video, “our last show kind of ended with a fire alarm, thousands of people had to leave the building and came back and actually the show became much better – you could say a new beginning, more epic. So I started to use that as a concept, as a vision and to see how important is fire in a positive way, how we as mankind are depending on fire to make food, to make materials – but also how we need heat, we need the sun to survive.”
Fire isn’t just a mere inspiration for the designer, who instead opted for a rather different makeup: ashes from burnt wood. Recycled polyester and organic cotton are reworked into burnt-like patterns, shaped as blooming flowers; tie-dye prints resembling ink mixed with water in pink and black are mixed with more earthy tones; safari hats make their way into the collection as a means of both protection and functionality. The 12 looks, ranging from pink to dark blue, give off a melted illusion that perfectly embodies the soul and concept of the collection.
Hermès’ Sublime Nonchalance
During the second to last day of the first-ever Digital Paris Fashion Week, Hermès has decided to prove – yet again – how one should be doing Fashion Week. Amongst all the behind-the-scenes videos, the over the top performances and the cliffhangers left behind from brands eager to do more in the coming months, the French Maison presented its SS21 collection with an unprecedented performance designed with the artistic collaboration of Cyril Teste.
Created by Véronique Nichanian, the one-shot video manages to take the audience on a journey through fittings, cameras and shootings discovering the brand’s workshop in Pantin where everyone plays themselves.
Close-ups on shoes, jewellery and perfectly tailored trousers enable us to deep dive into the incredibly refired details of the collection. Clean silhouettes create a timelessly casual look whereas pops of fluo and stripes give the overall collection a much needed carefree crossover. Rather than the usual 40 looks, this time Nichanian opted for just 18 looks – crafted beautifully and with that sublime elegance and Je ne sai quoi Hermès is known for.
Expressing lightness, simplicity and nonchalance, leathers have been reinvented with finesse, pockets, accessories and patterns can be found front and centre. Under the camera lens, the details steal the limelight. In an industry ready to go back to what it knows best, Hermès has instead decided to invite us into its world and showed us exactly what we needed. “The frantic aspect of fashion does not interest me in the slightest,” Nichanian explained. “Here at Hermès we use an equestrian phrase that seems particularly apt in this day and age: ‘Straight ahead, calm, and poised’.”