Iceberg Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Milan
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In the mood for an Eighties flashback (once again)? Iceberg is, reinterpreting the intarsia knit sweaters designed by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac in the notorious decade that helped make the brand. Iceberg’s cofounder Giuliana Marchini Gerani also modeled the original sweater in the 1983 “People Today” ad campaign lensed by Oliver Toscani. Takes on the design, including the first copycat look - a top in triangular-shaped sections of black leather, white mohair and camel wool with two crossing bands of leather taping - made for a graphic debut as the hero of this knitwear dominated collection. But the house also unearthed strong-shouldered jackets, batwing sleeves and garish-hued knits (in shades like cerise pink and turquoise) with sequin inserts, elements that for a good part of the audience are better off left in the photo album (cerise leather tuxedo pant, anyone?). Even the dark gray knits with wavy colored intarsia motifs resembling tears looked like a metaphor for bad taste bursting to get out. Part of the issue with the show was what it lacked in fresh twists, but the contemporary hooded color-blocked parka and clean-cut color-blocked dress with short zips details at the shoulders were among the few saving graces.

- Katya Foreman

 

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