In Milan Classic Tailoring Meets Young Quirkiness

On the second day of Milan Mens Fashion Week, a series of younger brands gave a twist to their offering.

At Caruso, creative director Aldo Maria Camillo reinforced his legacy of pragmatic masculine style. Every season, the designer presents unmistakably concrete and qualitatively noteworthy looks ranging from tailored separates to leather coats and trousers. This season, classic tailoring was strengthened by a palette of bolder reds, camo greens and elegant whites. Standout pieces from the collection included a quilted suede coat in cherry red, a short leather jacket with shearling inserts and a white urban looking suit.

Known for the buzz around his workwear staples, Han Kjobenhavn debuted at Milan Menswear Fashion Week with a co-ed show inspired by the darkness of the Danish winter landscape and how shorter days condition changes in human behaviour and moods. Alien-like models strutted down the runway wearing heavy chain-like jewellery and carrying classic school-like carry-ons. The collection definitely gave away eighties vibes, as oversized volumes and strong shoulders were contrasted with tighter silhouettes. It was all about contrasts and ambiguities, and the designer shed a light on tailoring, as maxi jackets and pinstriped trousers were juxtaposed to velvets in bright shades of purples and greens.

At Paura by Danilo Paura, checked and corduroy tailoring, fleece jackets and leather suits went hand in hand. Crafted from premium fabrics, colourful knits stood out giving away artisanal vibes. Definitely a fun, quirky alternative to same-old classic tailoring formula.

Lastly, creative director Valerio Farina returned to Milan Menswear Fashion Week for the third consecutive time in a row by debuting the Fall/Winter 2020 collection for his brand Numero 00. Farina reflected on the dichotomy between the good and the bad, a duality which has been seen a lot during the mens shows this season. The designer pushed forth his interest in making a statement on sustainability by showcasing a series of printed faux fur shearling coats and joggers and a capsule collection composed of innovative fabrics and 100% recycled coffee bean and bamboo charcoal fabrics.

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