In Milan Classic Tailoring Meets Young Quirkiness

On the second day of Milan Mens Fashion Week, a series of younger brands gave a twist to their offering.

At Caruso, creative director Aldo Maria Camillo reinforced his legacy of pragmatic masculine style. Every season, the designer presents unmistakably concrete and qualitatively noteworthy looks ranging from tailored separates to leather coats and trousers. This season, classic tailoring was strengthened by a palette of bolder reds, camo greens and elegant whites. Standout pieces from the collection included a quilted suede coat in cherry red, a short leather jacket with shearling inserts and a white urban looking suit.

Known for the buzz around his workwear staples, Han Kjobenhavn debuted at Milan Menswear Fashion Week with a co-ed show inspired by the darkness of the Danish winter landscape and how shorter days condition changes in human behaviour and moods. Alien-like models strutted down the runway wearing heavy chain-like jewellery and carrying classic school-like carry-ons. The collection definitely gave away eighties vibes, as oversized volumes and strong shoulders were contrasted with tighter silhouettes. It was all about contrasts and ambiguities, and the designer shed a light on tailoring, as maxi jackets and pinstriped trousers were juxtaposed to velvets in bright shades of purples and greens.

At Paura by Danilo Paura, checked and corduroy tailoring, fleece jackets and leather suits went hand in hand. Crafted from premium fabrics, colourful knits stood out giving away artisanal vibes. Definitely a fun, quirky alternative to same-old classic tailoring formula.

Lastly, creative director Valerio Farina returned to Milan Menswear Fashion Week for the third consecutive time in a row by debuting the Fall/Winter 2020 collection for his brand Numero 00. Farina reflected on the dichotomy between the good and the bad, a duality which has been seen a lot during the mens shows this season. The designer pushed forth his interest in making a statement on sustainability by showcasing a series of printed faux fur shearling coats and joggers and a capsule collection composed of innovative fabrics and 100% recycled coffee bean and bamboo charcoal fabrics.

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Slimane's Celine Chases Enduring Fame
By Gianluca Cantaro
Hedi Slimane seemed to state it bluntly: like it or not...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Hedi Slimane seemed to state it bluntly: like it or not this is me and now I'm doing it at Celine. His language is clear and hard wired in everybody's mind. No surprises, no shake-ups, just him and his image. The fleeting DNA of the french Maison easily...
Hedi Slimane seemed to state it bluntly: like it or not this is me and now I'm doing it at Celine. His language is clear and hard wired in everybody's mind. No surprises, no shake-ups, just him and his image. The fleeting DNA of the french Maison easily lays itself open to different personal interpretations, as it has already happened with previous...
The Devil Is In The Details
By Alice Pfeiffer
Philosopher Walter Benjamin introduced a concept that he named the “optical unconscious”,...
By Alice Pfeiffer
By Alice Pfeiffer
Philosopher Walter Benjamin introduced a concept that he named the “optical unconscious”, referring to the most infinite details that our eyes perceive without us realizing - but which are nevertheless generating associations and emotions.This is something Christian Wijnants seems to master: by...
Philosopher Walter Benjamin introduced a concept that he named the “optical unconscious”, referring to the most infinite details that our eyes perceive without us realizing - but which are nevertheless generating associations and emotions.This is something Christian Wijnants seems to master: by subtly confronting references and playing with nuances, he gives an impalpable aura to his...
Satoshi Kondo’s Vision for Miyake
By Gianluca Cantaro
Ise is a small Japanese city in the central Mie Prefecture located on the eastern edge of the Kii...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Ise is a small Japanese city in the central Mie Prefecture located on the eastern edge of the Kii Peninsula. Here lies a big shrine complex centred on two main buildings that are the heart of the Shinto religion and it is famous for its tradition that has lasted over 1.300 years: every two...
Ise is a small Japanese city in the central Mie Prefecture located on the eastern edge of the Kii Peninsula. Here lies a big shrine complex centred on two main buildings that are the heart of the Shinto religion and it is famous for its tradition that has lasted over 1.300 years: every two decades the old shrines are dismantled, and new ones are built on an adjacent site. Why? Among the...
Shanghai Fashion Week Announces Special Edition
By Alice Ierace
Shanghai Fashion Week has received understanding and support from various parties in the industry...
By Alice Ierace
Shanghai Fashion Week has received understanding and support from various parties in the industry since the decision to the postpone AW20 edition was made due to the pneumonia epidemic caused by the coronavirus.To further implement the task of epidemic prevention while protecting the health and...
Shanghai Fashion Week has received understanding and support from various parties in the industry since the decision to the postpone AW20 edition was made due to the pneumonia epidemic caused by the coronavirus.To further implement the task of epidemic prevention while protecting the health and safety of partners, audience and staff, SFW has decided to make changes regarding the organisation of...
Paco Rabanne's Poetic Female Stength
By Gianluca Cantaro
At Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena presented an exquisite collection which celebrated the strength...
By Gianluca Cantaro
At Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena presented an exquisite collection which celebrated the strength of the women and their freedom. "I wanted to highlight their power," explained the designer backstage after the show. "In today's difficult world, they need to be strong and express it. But I also...
At Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena presented an exquisite collection which celebrated the strength of the women and their freedom. "I wanted to highlight their power," explained the designer backstage after the show. "In today's difficult world, they need to be strong and express it. But I also wanted to emphasize their romance. To do this, I played with a collision of different eras from where I...
Paris When It Sizzles
By Alice Pfeiffer
Draped lace, floral patterns, python prints, and a blazer with a plunging V-line opened Atlein’s...
By Alice Pfeiffer
By Alice Pfeiffer
Draped lace, floral patterns, python prints, and a blazer with a plunging V-line opened Atlein’s show. Purposely quoting conventional codes of femininity, designer Antonin Tron intended to parallel the notion of natural beauty (both in its organic references and its revisiting of classic...
Draped lace, floral patterns, python prints, and a blazer with a plunging V-line opened Atlein’s show. Purposely quoting conventional codes of femininity, designer Antonin Tron intended to parallel the notion of natural beauty (both in its organic references and its revisiting of classic garments) with natural concerns. Designer by day and activist by night, Tron produced the collection...
Stylish Conversation Piece at Lanvin
By Gianluca Cantaro
Bruno Sialelli at Lanvin did exquisite research into the...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Bruno Sialelli at Lanvin did exquisite research into the Maison's archives and imagined a kind of bridge between Jeanne Lanvin and today's world – the one he wants to narrate. The show took place in the Manufacture des Gobelins – a historic tapestry...
Bruno Sialelli at Lanvin did exquisite research into the Maison's archives and imagined a kind of bridge between Jeanne Lanvin and today's world – the one he wants to narrate. The show took place in the Manufacture des Gobelins – a historic tapestry factory founded in 1662 in Paris – and it displayed old Arazzi from different centuries. The cosy...
A Day Full of Parisian Promise
By Alice Pfeiffer
Rest assured should there have been any remaining doubts: sportswear is very much over and done...
By Alice Pfeiffer
By Alice Pfeiffer
Rest assured should there have been any remaining doubts: sportswear is very much over and done with — something Casey Cadwallader proved by showing a line of powerfully sexy clothes at Mugler.Drawing for the brand’s archives and its love for figure-hugging garments enhanced by bold proportions,...
Rest assured should there have been any remaining doubts: sportswear is very much over and done with — something Casey Cadwallader proved by showing a line of powerfully sexy clothes at Mugler.Drawing for the brand’s archives and its love for figure-hugging garments enhanced by bold proportions, he showed an army of belted leather overcoats, knotted shirts and lamé pants, that contrasted with...