Iris Van Herpen Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
Reputed for her almost scientific approach on fashion, Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen has been pushing the boundaries of Haute Couture for a while already. In this way, a new ready-to-wear line made sense: “It was about translating the technical and creative codes of my Couture collection in a more wearable and affordable way,” stated the designer, when asked about the style of her new line.
Needless to say, Van Herpen's experimental take on fashion attracted talented people alike. “Grimes is hanging over there,” smiled Van Herpen, while pointing at a picture of the singer hanging in her showroom. “I just got an email from her saying that she likes my work. We met at one of her concerts in Amsterdam and are friends ever since,” added the designer. The Canadian musician and artist – who was sitting front row at the Couture show and also shot the new collection's campaign in New York – is the face of Van Herpen's new ready-to-wear line, which turned out to be a diluted version of her signature style.
Consequently, Van Herpen's new autumn-winter 2013/14 silhouettes impressed with ingenious detailing on constructed silhouettes. Eyelets and lace-structured black body-cons were a timeless take on the little black dress. Squared and triangular cutouts and patterns came along on cream silk evening dresses, while heavily texturized leather jackets – reminiscent of the designer's mummification collection – open-weaved knitwear dresses and plexiglass sculptural trimmings on twinsets underlined the designer's three dimensional, yet wearable new take on fashion.
“I decided to make a lighter collection, still with handmade details, which is quiet unusual for ready-to-wear. I use the same patterns, but I simplify them,” explained Van Herpen. This also explains the pricing of her sophisticated new work, starting with 850 euros for knitwear and going up to 5000 euros for her “mummification” jackets. So far, so good – now Iris is more than ready for an official womenswear show.
- Elisabeta Tudor