This was the second collection for Yoshiyuki Miyamae, the designer who has taken creative control at Issey Miyake the last summer. The show captured the crowd's attention with an ingenious line-up of shrink-wrap pleated dresses at Paris Fashion Week on Sunday.
Designed from a new house textile dubbed steam-stretch, the clothes morphed into body-contouring jersey dresses. The pleats pulled in around the figure, more or less in function on the garment pattern.
Representing a further evolution of the pleating technique (engrained in the brand's DNA) and A-POC concept, these unique stretchy clothes are produced using a streaming process. The "Steam Stretch" textile can be designed and programmed in many ways in advance. It is then transformed into various silhouettes by the application of a steam finish.
“It’s an instant technique — a bit like microwave food. It’s ready straight away,” the house’s young womenswear designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae said backstage after the show.
A series of dresses made from pre-designed and programmed squares of fabric, with specific areas of silk and stretch yarn- when the steam finish is applied, the stretch yarn shrinks, creating texture and a softer silhouette. Woven jacquard suiting is given the same treatment as the jersey pieces above, to create a multi textured surface from threads varying in thicknesses. Textured rich woollen coats feature compact hidden colourful mineral printed water repellent covering.
The theme of the collection is "Mineral Miracle" to express the beauty and power of the natural world which is hidden in minerals.